GAMBELLARA, VENETO: A BUBBLY WINE AND A REVELATION!

This month the Italian Food Wine Travel group #ItalianFWT explored wines from the very well known region of Veneto and hardly known (outside Italy) town of Gambellara in Veneto, northern Italy. Our host this month is Deanna Atk from Wineivore. It's Q4 and nearly year-end so with everyone's life and travel schedules we won't have a chat this month. But the list (and links) of all of us who've written about the grapes and wines of Veneto is at the end of this post so do scroll over to browse each article and be inspired!

THE REGION

Gambellara is a lovely village/town in Veneto to the east of Verona and over the hill from Soave, where like Soave, most wines are made from Garganega grapes. It's a hidden gem with wine makers at small wineries who generally practice biodynamic farming and often are certified organic. Gambellara has had DOC status since 1970, two years before Soave. But Soave is more famous internationally simply because it produces a much higher volume of wine so the wine gets around. And also, not sure why, but the US & UK demand for Soave wine surged in the 80s.

https://vineyards.com/wine-map/italy/veneto

If you've travelled to any Old World wine producing region you likely know that there are usually local grapes that are hugely popular as wine but virtually unknown outside. E.g. Pignoletto in Emilia-Romagna. And winemakers there adhere to the specificity of certain aspects of wine and winemaking but aren't always chasing a specific high mark of origin (DOC, DOCG, ...etc.) so they get creative while adhering to the broader requirements of marks of origin like IGT that allow winemakers greater freedom of expression. In Gambellara as well, while they have Gambellara Classico DOC (1970) and Gambellara Recioto DOCG (2009), the rest can be Veneto IGT (1995). Veneto IGT was introduced in 1995 to allow winemakers more freedom (i.e. less stringent requirements compared to DOC & DOCG) and meet the growing international demand. However, it has also resulted in winemakers who make all three levels of wine and use the broader Veneto IGT mark to show their creativity with wines like the sparkling Veneto IGT wine I've reviewed below.

THE WINE, THE WINERY, AND THE FOOD

2020 "PRIMO INCONTRO" GARGANEGA FRIZZANTE, VENETO IGT

100% Garganega

ABV 10.5%

SRP ~$23

Davide Vignato is heading the winery his grandfather and father started in the 1950s. They have been farming their 12 hectares organically since 1997, although Davide's first vintage was 2006. A third of their land is planted with Garganega vines which grow on terraced steep hillsides on volcanic soil enriched with basaltic lava that decomposes to add back potassium and magnesium into the soil. This unique soil composition is also what makes Garganega in this area quite aromatic.

Davide's approach to the Garganega grapes from his 25-year old vines located in the Monti di Mezzo and Faldeo subregions is low-intervention wine. Grape bunches are pressed, fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel, and left on the spent yeast "sur lie" for a few months. There is no added sulphur, to really highlight what the decomposing lava-rich terroir offers on the palate. Dosage is in the form of Gambellara Recioto must to aid second fermentation in the bottle, and there is no disgorgement or any other refinement so the wine continues to lie on the spent yeast for a few more months before it is ready to enjoy. Quite different from Prosecco, and with a fine slew of bubbles in this low alcohol wine, it is brilliant as an aperitivo in convivial company, or paired with something equally aromatic as the wine itself.

Here in Silicon Valley we are submerged in a sea of dynamic tech founders. But they key takeaway from interactions with people like that is their perseverance, belief in what they are making, and their courage to take a chance on something new. Sometimes a new form of something old. Its a different energy, different vibe, and so energising! That is what attracted me to this wine. 

Looks: turbid, pale yellow with persistent but fine racy perlage (bubbles)

Nose: warm bread, white flowers, faint oxidative hint of apple, and a passing whiff of tart citrus

Palate: Echos the nose, but also has a fresh mineral edge and ends with the almond note often tasted in wines that don't have full phenolic ripeness. Racy and persistent bubbles, a very light but elegant wine with a delicious, medium finish. 

Pairing: We had this Garganega frizzante with southern Thai roasted fish (halibut) enrobed in a yellow curry sauce, rice, and dipping sauce. This was our first meal after over a month in Italy and France and we were ready for the deep complexity of South/Southeast Asian flavours. The sweetness and spice of the curry was wonderful with the wine and really brought to the top the floral notes in the wine. The oxidative apple and almond notes melded beautifully with the dipping sauce (that I used as a drizzle over the fish) - the fish sauce, sugar, lime juice, with the slight heat of Thai chillies were magical with the wine. I always leave the skin on fish - it helps keep the fish moist. 

We have since made this exact meal twice, since we had more bottles of this wine. It's just terrific. If you can get your hands on this wine, do try it!

I've talked about the Veneto wine that spoke to me this time but see what the other writers sipped, savoured, and talked about below.

• Our host Deanna at Wineivore talks about 
"A Taste of Verona, Italy"
• My discovery of this region is here on Keep the Peas where I talk about “Gambellara, Veneto: A Bubbly Wine and a Revelation!"
• "Crumbs: Scaia, Pearà, and Mussels alla Buzara" from Camilla at Culinary Cam
• "La Gioiosa Brut Rosé & Raspberry Soup" from Andrea at The Quirky Cork
• "The Hills Near Verona and the Organic, Biodynamic, and Regenerative wines of Fasoli Gino and Tasi/Crushed Grape Chronicles" from Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles
• "7 Veneto Wines and a Meal with Memories from My Visit: Venice, Verona, Valdobbiadne, Valpolicella, Soave" from Gwendolyn at Wine Predator
• "The Custoza Grape of the Veneto with Cantina Gorgo" / Vino Travels" from Jennifer at Vino Travels
• "Beyond Prosecco: Carménère is Cultivated in Veneto, Too" from Cindy at Grape Experiences

A 'SEEYANEVER2020' TOAST WITH ITALIAN BUBBLY

Photo: Payal Vora

In December the Italian Food Wine Travel folks are exploring the sparkling wines of Italy in An Exploration of Italian Sparkling Wines for the Holidays hosted by Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Cam. Read her invitation post to find out more. Fraciacorta, Prosecco, Lambrusco, they're all going to be there! So see what everyone's poured and paired below, and join us on Twitter under #ItalianFWT at 8 AM PST on 5 December to tell us your thoughts!

• Terri of Our Good Life says Beviamo alla nostra! Prosecco Superiore and Happy Christmas!
• Marcia of Joy of Wine is Celebrating the Season with Sparkling Freisa.
• Cindy of Grape Experiences writes about Pure Trentodoc – Sparkling Wines from the Mountains.
• Jill of L'Ocassion encourages us to Be in Italy for the Holidays with This Bubbly Wine Lineup.
• Gwendolyn of Wine Predator pushes Beyond Prosecco? Try These Sustainable Sparkling Wines from Italy's Erbaluce, Franciacorta, Lambrusco, Pignoletto.
• Lynn of Savor the Harvest gives us Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco to Make Your Holiday Sparkle - La Tordera Rive Di Guia.
• Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm says Cheers to 2021...2020 Don't Let The Door Hit You On The Way Out.
• Susannah of Avvinare pours Versatile Lambrusco for the Holidays.
• Deanna of Asian Test Kitchen serves Val D'Oca Prosecco Paired with Party Starters.
• Payal of Keep the Peas offers A ‘SeeYaNever2020’ Toast with Italian Bubbly.
• Linda of My Full Wine Glass says Hello Again, Lambrusco - Everyone Deserves a Second Chance.
• Jane of Always Ravenous pairs a Frizzante with Holiday Sweet Treats.
• Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles pours Prosecco - Joyful Bubbles to “Wring” Out 2020.
• Jen of Vino Travels is ready to Sparkle up the Holidays with Prosecco Superiore.
• Martin of ENOFYLZ Wine Blog offers A Taste of 21st Century Lambrusco; Paltrinieri Lambrusco di Sorbara Radice.
• Nicole of Somm's Table shares The Wide World of Italian Bubblies.
• Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla is Celebrating with Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Amidst the Pandemic.

Susannah Gold of Avvinare, who is a Vinitaly International Italian Wine Ambassador, generously provided two Prosecco samples for review.

PROSECCO

Photo: Payal Vora

Prosecco is a wine dear to me... it brings back memories of family summer holidays in Europe, of parties at university where Prosecco was often the affordable sparkling wine of choice, of summer in Treviso a few years ago. Little else is more perfect for a sweltering Italian summer than cold Prosecco and good company. A few years ago I had grant money I needed to finish up before I moved on to my next project and an architect friend in Munich happened to be free that summer so we drove over and explored every corner of Treviso. We stayed in agriturismos everywhere and every afternoon just when we got back to relax before dinner the staff would greet guests with a complimentary bottle of Prosecco... per room. Between Rolle, Conegliano, Asolo, Cison di Valmarino, and every other village in Treviso, we had a glorious summer full of photography, buildings, art, fashion, food, espresso, and all manner of Prosecco.

Prosecco is arguably the most well-known Italian sparkling wine in the US although it ought to be more popular - it is light, bright, crisp, great with food, and a perfect porch sipper. Made in the Veneto region in NE Italy primarily from the native grape Glera (85% min. in a blend), although only the sparkling type is most known in the US, there are three types of Prosecco: tranquillo (still), frizzante (lightly sparkling), and spumante (sparkling). The Treviso province in Veneto has the perfect climate and soil types for the higher-acid Glera grapes which are well-suited for dry sparkling wines. The best Prosecco comes from the steep hillsides but even the wine from the plains is perfect for casual drinking. As such, Prosecco is classified as Denominazione d’Origine Controllata (DOC) and Denominazione d’Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). Prosecco DOC is a broader, less stringent category and the DOCG is stricter and the wines are from specific areas of Veneto, and supposedly better quality.

https://www.winemag.com/2020/03/10/best-prosecco-guide/

Read more about all things Prosecco and the region's recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (since 2019) here.

VAL D'OCA + THE WINE

The Val d’Oca co-operative founded in 1952 is one of the oldest producers of Prosecco. Their sparkling wines are made from Glera grapes cultivated and vinified in the hillsides of Valdobbiadene. Val d’Oca produces Prosecco Superiore DOCG from the hills of Valdobbiadene and Prosecco DOC from the greater Treviso province. The winery has always had a forward looking approach and their recent efforts include a sustainability budget that follows the UN Sustainable Development Goals 2030.

Clusters of Glera grapes (Payal Vora)

Val d'Oca Prosecco

11% ABV | SRP $13

85% Glera, 15% Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay

Colour: 

Lemon, fine bubbles

Nose: 

Citrus, ripe peach, green apple, white flowers

Palate: 

Similar to nose: A bright citrusy opening leads into juicy peach, apricot, and green apple with fragrant white flowers bordered by a slight mineral edge. A very crisp balanced wine with juicy acidity, medium body, medium+ finish. This Prosecco would be terrific on its own as an aperitif, paired with a slew of foods, or in a cocktail. Best now or within 2 years but not meant for prolonged cellaring.

THE FOOD

Most meals at our house are lively affairs but in 2020 I think we've been celebrating even more than usual as a way of encouraging the year to just end already! I suspect that we'll continue this throughout December so we can charge on with real life where exciting things happen and where we freely hug and mingle with humans in all corners of the world and where if we get sick we have treatment options. I.e. real life in our real world with boundaries beyond home. And so, on this evening dinner was a bottle of Val d'Oca Prosecco paired with the first course, entrée, and main, and for dessert we had a silky cognac flip with a sprinkle of freshly grated nutmeg.

Photo: Payal Vora

FIRST: We eased into our evening with parmesan-black pepper biscotti and a pour of the Val d'Oca Prosecco. We usually have this biscotti with champagne and it's a superb pairing, so it was a bit of an obvious choice for Prosecco. The biscotti was delicious and so was the Prosecco, but together they were anything but. Something about the combination of the biscotti and Prosecco resulted in a most unappetising metallic taste. A combination to be repeated NEVER AGAIN.

ENTRÉE: We got past that pairing fiasco and moved on to the thing we were eagerly awaiting: East Coast oysters. Briny, meaty, and perfect for any dry sparkling wine, especially this Val d'Oca Prosecco. We had Cotuit, Blue Point, and Wellfleet oysters with a squeeze of lemon. They were all terrific with the Prosecco but the Blue Points, the briniest of the lot, were exceptional with the fine bubbles and citrusy mineral notes in the wine.

Photo: Payal Vora

MAIN: We had chimichurri-topped halibut on dressing with bread, celery, etc. and sage-laced roasted butternut squash with cranberries. I usually pair wine to the flavours of the dish rather than a single meat or vegetable and the rounded acidity (red wine vinegar FTW!), hint of herbaceousness, and the savouriness of garlic in the chimichurri were such a lovely complement to the bright notes of the Prosecco. The mild sweetness of the butternut squash and the tart-sweet cranberries we equally delicious with the wine.

Overall it was a splendid meal and I would absolutely recommend pairing Val d'Oca Prosecco with any course, not just the beginning of your meal. It offers such an excellent QPR that I would extend this pairing to a large dinner party, not just intimate gatherings. You can count on the Val d'Oca Prosecco being offered at our first garden party of 2021 when we reacquaint with real life! I'll take the liberty of speaking for all of us and say: We Cannot Wait!

CRÉMANT D'ALSACE: MORE THAN JUST A SPARKLING WINE!

In November, the French #Winophiles reviewed festive holiday-worthy crémants from various wine regions of France. Crémant is the official term for a sparkling wine made anywhere outside Champagne, even if it's made in the Champagne method or, methode champenoise. We received samples of 3 different Crémant d'Alsace AOP wines thanks to Teuwen Communications (http://teuwen.com/), and we've reviewed two of the bottles here. Like in Champagne, the sparkling wines of Alsace are made using white and red grapes, and can be white or rosé in colour. The grapes used for Crémants d'Alsace - in various combinations or as a single varietal - are riesling, pinot blanc, pinot gris, pinot noir, chardonnay, auxerrois blanc.

In the festive spirit, we decided to do more than just sip the wines as apéritifs or with a meal: Crémant d'Alsace cocktails! Many of the classic Champagne cocktails work brilliantly with Crémant d'Alsace - both Alsace and Champagne are far north, have the same bottle shape, and are comparable in many ways despite the soils being rather different. E.g. Champagne does not have the volcanic soil that parts of Alsace do. Nevertheless, cocktails it was!

LUCIEN ALBRECHT CRÉMANT D'ALSACE BRUT NV, SRP $21.99

https://www.lucien-albrecht.com/our-wines/cremants-alsace-lucien-albrecht/

The history of Maison Lucien Albrecht dates to the 15th century in southern Alsace. From then to now, they have gained a reputation as one of the premier wine makers in Alsace. Although in 2012 they joined the Wolfberger family, they continue to uphold the discerning Albrecht approach to winemaking. The Brut has fine persistent bubbles, a beautiful straw colour, and a nose full of floral aromas. Juicy acidity on the palate with toast and white flowers, a balanced wine with a medium finish. We enjoyed the delicious Lucien Albrecht blanc de blancs in two different ways: a classic elderflower cocktail and a blood orange cocktail. 

Both cocktails were excellent with the crisp fresh crémant, and the rosemary sprig added just enough resinous woodsy flavour to complement the floral notes in the wine. A combo we'd gladly do again! The cocktails come together quite quickly, making them ideal for a party of two or twenty alike! We also had a salmon, corn, and orzo pasta with a lemony dill vinaigrette - superb with the wine! Overall the Lucien Albrecht crémant is a versatile wine - equally at home with food, on it's own, or mixed into a cocktail.

GUSTAVE LORENTZ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE BRUT NV, SRP $24.99

http://www.gustavelorentz.com/

Domaine Gustave Lorentz was established in 1836 and remains a family owned winery that has consistently upheld their vision and quality. It is also one of the most widely distributed Alsace brands, sold in 57 countries! 

The Brut is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. A lovely straw colour leads to small and persistent bubbles, a nose of autumn fruit like pears, and of course, the yeasty aroma of brioche. The same notes show on the palate, along with a lively minerality and smooth mouthfeel.

We made two different cocktails with this one as well: one with a bit of raw sugar and Grand Marnier, which only enhanced the other white fruit on the palate. Topped slowly with the crémant so as not to stir it up too much. A most refreshing cocktail! The other with a hint of raw sugar soaked in cognac and lemon juice then topped with the crémant.

Also see what exciting things the other Winophiles did with their crémant samples:

Liz Barrett from What’s In That Bottle is writing “Affordalicious Alsace: Best Bubbles for the Buck”

Jill Barth from L’Occasion will show us “A Festival of French Crémant”

Robin Renken from Crushed Grape Chronicles will publish “A Sparkling Rosé by any other name…just might be a Crémant”

Camilla Mann will talk about a tasting pairing, Lingcod, Legumes, and Domaine Mittnacht Frères Crémant d’Alsace on her blog Culinary Adventures with Cam.

Susannah Gold from avivinare.com will share her post “French Cremant – Perfect Sparklers for the Holiday Season” Susannah is also on Twitter @vignetocomm and Insta: @vignetocomms)

Martin Redmond will be “Elevating Weeknight Fare with Cremant d’Alsace” at the Enofylz Wine Blog

Nicole Ruiz Hudson’s post on SommsTable.com will be “Crémants for Going Out and Staying In”

Wendy Klik of A Day in the Life on the Farm is writing “Rustic Elegance; Fall Vegetable Soup paired with Cremant” which sounds perfect for Thanksgiving!

Jane Niemeyer will teach us “How to Pair Crémant d’Alsace and Food” at alwaysravenous.com

Payal Vora’s post at Keep the Peas will be called “Crémant d’Alsace: More Than Just A Sparkling Wine”

Lauren Walsh from The Swirling Dervish will “Add a Little Sparkle to Your Holiday with Crémant d’Alsace”.

Jeff Burrows will be pairing “Elegant Crémant de Bourgogne Served with Lobster Two Ways” at foodwineclick.com

Gwendolyn Alley from winepredator.com is going to be looking at Crémants from a variety of regions in her post this weekend.

David Crowley from cookingchatfood.com will be discussing the “Best Food Pairings for Crémant d’Alsace”

Rupal Shankar the Syrah Queen will be giving us “Five Reasons to Drink Crémant d’Alsace this Holiday Season”

Neil will be joining us from Eat, Live, Travel, Write with a post entitled “Champagne taste but not a Champagne budget? An exploration of France’s Crémant wines”