RECIPES

Sunday, March 30, 2014

ONION AND HERB FOCACCIA


A bread by any other name... focaccia, fougasse, hogaza, schiacciata, pizza... all contain the same basic ingredients: high-gluten (strong) flour, salt, yeast/leavening, oil, water. Focaccia, the predecessor of pizza is thicker, whereas pizza is thin, almost like a flatbread. But both are great with a variety of toppings.

Focaccia is great as a snack on its own, sliced with a bit of meat, cheese, a fried egg, or vegetables inside, with soup, roasted vegetables, meats, cubed and toasted into croutons, in a breakfast strata... the ideas are endless.





The one difference between any focaccia-like bread and pizza is that focaccia has a distinct olive oil flavour thanks to the generously greased pan in which it's baked, and the drizzle of olive oil it gets before baking. Don't skimp on the quality or quantity of oil - in this recipe, I've already pared down the oil so definitely don't reduce the quantity of oil in any step otherwise you'll end up with a dry crust, bottom, and crumb - essentially a dry loaf. No fun.

 

Onion and Herb Focaccia
Makes: 1 loaf, 17 in. x 12 in.

Dough:
- 2-1/2 cups whole wheat flour 
- 2-1/2 cups bread flour
- 2-1/2 tsp. active dry yeast (not Rapid Rise)
- 1 tbsp. salt
- 1 tbsp. lemon juice
- 2 tbsp. olive oil, plus more for greasing the baking tray
- 2 cups warm water (not hot - or the yeast will die and the dough won't rise!)

Topping:
- 1 tbsp. fennel seeds
- 1-1/2 tbsp. rosemary leaves, fresh or dried
- 1 tbsp. thyme, fresh or dried
- 1 tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes
- 1 tsp. black pepper, freshly ground
- 3 tbsp. olive oil
- 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 jalapeño, thinly sliced
- 1 tbsp. flaked or coarse salt
  1. In a large bowl, make the yeast sponge: mix 1 cup warm water, 1 cup whole wheat flour, and yeast. Set aside for 15 minutes - after 15 minutes the mixture should look frothy and feel "spongy" when stirred with a spoon.
  2. In a small bowl, mix the fennel seeds, rosemary, thyme, crushed red pepper, black pepper, and the 3 tbsp. olive oil. Set aside.
  3. To the yeast sponge, add the rest of the whole wheat flour, bread flour, 2 tbsp. olive oil, lemon juice, and salt. Mix well - the dough will be dry and clumpy. Add 1/2 cup warm water and mix into a dough. If needed, add more warm water, 1/4 cup at a time, to bind the dough into a ball. Knead till smooth and supple, about 5 minutes. The dough should be soft but not wet and sticky. If it is, add flour 1 tbsp. at a time until the dough is soft but not wet or sticky.
  4. Form the dough into a ball and put into a large bowl. Cover the bowl and put it in a warm, draft-free place until the dough has risen and doubled in size, at least 1 hour.
  5. Generously grease a 17 in. x 12 in. rectangular jelly roll pan / metal baking tray with olive oil.
  6. Gently push down the risen dough. Transfer to the greased pan and using your fingers, flatten the dough to fill the pan. The dough may spring back - let it rest for a minute and continue to flatten into an even layer.
  7. Let the dough rise in the baking tray for 20 - 30 minutes.
  8. Make sure there's a middle and lower rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 425 F / 220 C. Fill an oven-proof tray with 1 - 2 in. water.
  9. Using your finger tips, make "dimples" all over the dough.
  10. Brush on the olive oil and herb mixture all over the dough. Gently press the sliced onion and jalapeño on to the dough. Evenly sprinkle the salt, if using, on the dough.
  11. Put the pan (with the dough) on the middle rack, and the tray with water on the lower rack.
  12. Turn the temperature down to 400 F / 200 C and bake for 25 - 30 minutes until the focaccia is golden at the top and bottom (use a spatula to lift a corner and check).
  13. Remove from the oven and cool for 3-5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store leftovers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day or in the fridge for up to 2 days.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

WAFFLES: EASY, NOT BOXED



Now that summer's here, it's time for waffles-and-summer-fruit weekends! The cornstarch gives these a crispy exterior and the egg whites beaten and folded in make a fluffy interior. If you don't want to bother with separating the eggs and all of that, lightly beat the eggs without separating and add to the dry ingredients when you add the wet ingredients.

According to my Vermont friends, the best maple syrup is Grade B, not Grade A. The consensus is that Grade A is too light and lacks the smoky maple flavour that the Grade B has. So they've advised me to focus on Grade B, and leave the Grade A to snooty New Yorkers. I have both grades at home so I tried them on these waffles and those pancakes, and I'm a convert to Grade B! That's also what I used in these almond and cashew butter fudge bites.

No maple syrup? Honey's just as great!

Waffles
Makes: 5 waffles


1 cup oat flour (grind 1 cup rolled oats in a blender till you have flour)
- 3/4 cup all-purpose (AP) flour (or bread flour)
- 1/4 cup cornstarch
2 eggs, yolks and whites separated
- 1-3/4 cups milk
- 1/4 cup oil (coconut, grape seed, olive, or any neutral oil)
- 4 tsp. baking powder
1 tbsp. sugar
- 1/4 
tsp. salt
- 1/2 
tsp. vanilla extract
- 2-3 tsp. oil (to brush on the hot waffle iron)
  1. In a medium bowl mix all the dry ingredients.
  2. Make a well and add the wet ingredients except egg whites. Stir until you have a smooth mixture.
  3. Beat the egg whites in another bowl till you have soft peaks. Fold into the smooth mixture and set aside. (If you don't want to bother with separating the eggs and all of that, lightly beat the eggs without separating and add to the dry ingredients when you add the wet ingredients.)
  4. Preheat waffle iron.
  5. Brush preheated waffle iron with a teaspoon of oil. Ladle about 1 cup batter onto the hot waffle iron. Cook until golden brown.
  6. Serve hot with butter, maple syrup, and fresh fruits.

ALMOND AND CASHEW BUTTER CHOCOLATE FUDGE


I love homemade nut and seed butters for many reasons: they're easy, quick, additive-free, fresh, you can make any combination and quantity you want, and you can do so much with them. Like this "fudge" with almond and cashew butter.

If you want to know how to make nut butter at home, check out my almond butter blog post. Feel free to use a single nut butter or a combination - hazelnut, almond, pumpkin seed butter, tahini, whatever you fancy. Store-bought nut butter certainly works in this recipe, just make sure it is made with only nuts and has no additives like sugar or oil.

sometimes toss 1 - 2  of these into my breakfast smoothie - totally delicious.



Almond and Cashew Butter Chocolate Fudge
Makes: approximately 25 pieces

- 1/2 cup homemade almond butter
1/2 cup homemade cashew butter
- 1/4 cup coconut oil
- 1/4 cup maple syrup, preferably Grade B
- 1/4 cup cocoa powder (not hot cocoa or hot chocolate mix!)
- 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp. salt

Optional garnishes:
- 2 tbsp. unsweetened coconut, shredded or flaked
- 2 tbsp. pumpkin seeds, toasted or raw

  1. Mix everything except garnishes in a bowl. Taste the mixture and add 1 tbsp. maple syrup at a time to adjust sweetness.
  2. Spread in a pan to make a 1/2 in. thick layer. Smooth the top and gently press on the garnishes (if you just sprinkle the garnishes on top, they won't stay on).
  3. Freeze for at least 2-3 hours. Remove the fudge from the pan and cut into approximately 1-1/2 in. square pieces (I find it easiest and fastest to cut the fudge into 1-1/2 in. strips in the pan itself, then remove it from the pan 1 strip at a time and cut into squares.) Store in the fridge.

Wednesday, March 19, 2014

CRÈME FRAÎCHE AND ONION DIP


This dip is so delicious that I cannot stop eating it. With everything. Roasted vegetables are way better than a spoon or fork to deliver food to your mouth anyway, so with those, or with chips, flatbreads, crackers, in a sandwich, over salmon, with boiled new potatoes, over poached eggs... the list is long!



And, it's fresh, herb-y, and takes no time to put together. It's based on a fantastic recipe my friend Kara sent me, but I made some changes based on what I had at home. I used crème fraîche, red onion, lemon, white pepper, less sugar, and added garlic.



Crème Fraîche and Onion Dip
Makes: 1-1/2 cups

- 1 cup crème fraîche, preferably home-made
- 2-1/2 tbsp. dill, finely minced
- 2 tbsp. red onion, finely diced
- 1 small clove garlic, smashed to a paste
- 1-1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper
- 1 tbsp. lemon zest
- 1/2 lemon, juiced
- 1 tsp. salt, adjust to taste
- 1/2 tsp. sugar

  1. Put the crème fraîche in a medium bowl.
  2. Stir in the rest of the ingredients and stir well to mix.
  3. Refrigerate for up to 3 days, or serve immediately.
Notes:
  1. Although you can serve it right away, the dip will taste better after a few hours or the next day.
  2. The dip will thicken in the fridge but that's ok. Just stir and serve when you're ready.

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

"SKINNY" FRIES: SWEET POTATO AND POTATO OVEN-FRIES



I've posted a recipe before, on what is possibly the world's best way of making "fries" in the oven. Crispy on the outside, steamy on the inside, delicious all over! This time around I added sweet potatoes to the mix.

As I've said in the earlier fries recipe, you want to use starchy potatoes rather than waxy. But really, any potatoes will be great in this recipe. Make sure to soak the cut potatoes in cool water anywhere from 2 - 24 hours, and change the water every few hours if you're soaking them longer than 4 hours.

Sweet potato fries, whether oven-baked or deep fried, don't crisp up as much as potatoes do, because of the higher moisture content of sweet potatoes. But slicing them into thin sticks and baking at a high temperature will help crisp them up considerably. Also, spread the fries on greased baking trays in a single layer without crowding.


As all respectable fries are, these are great with ketchup, mayonnaise, mustard-mayo mixed, pesto, cilantro chutney, herb dips, cheese dips, or, as I served them, with a quick creamy dip. I mixed home-made crème fraîche with some home-made chili sauce and called it all done! 

Home-made crème fraîche is so much more delicious and cleaner than buying commercially made sour cream. Besides, you can season the crème fraîche with anything: lemon, salt, pepper, honey, chili sauce, or even mix a couple of tablespoons into pesto or tomato (pasta) sauce to make a creamy sauce for your pasta.

On to the potatoes... when I refer to potatoes here, I mean sweet potatoes and potatoes.


Sweet Potato and Potato Oven-Fries
Makes: 4 - 6 servings

- 2 large russet potatoes (or 4 medium potatoes of any type)
- 2 large sweet potatoes (or 4 medium)
- 3 tbsp. oil (peanut, sunflower, safflower, coconut, olive, grapeseed)
- pepper, to taste
- salt, to taste
- 1 tbsp. oil, for greasing the baking trays

  1. Scrub any dirt or soil off the potatoes.
  2. Cut into thin fries and soak in cool water for 2 - 24 hours, changing water every few hours if soaking longer than 4 hours.
  3. Pre-heat oven to 425 F / 220 C and grease 1-2 large baking trays.
  4. Drain the potatoes and pat dry. Toss with oil and pepper, mixing everything with your hands to get the oil and pepper on all the potatoes.
  5. Put the potatoes on the baking trays in a single layer - don't pile them up on the trays otherwise some potatoes will be soft not crisp. Bake in batches if you need to.
  6. Bake for 30 - 35 min. (bake for 5 - 7 min. longer if you want them crisper). Ovens vary in temperature, so check the fries after 25 min.!
  7. Remove the fries from the oven and add salt and toss well to distribute the salt evenly.
  8. Add more pepper if you want, and serve hot, plain or with a dip!

ONE BRUSCHETTA, TWO BRUSCHETTE: WITH SEA URCHIN



Bruschetta (bru-skett-ah, not brushettuh): a simple antipasto for which toppings are only limited by your imagination. I used sea urchin because I had some leftover fresh sea urchin from sushi-making, but usually I make it vegetarian with diced leftover roasted vegetables: potatoes, asparagus, cauliflower, carrots, parsnips, or in the spring, even lightly crushed cooked peas. Get creative, you won't be disappointed!

You can also use cooked diced shrimp, diced sashimi grade tuna raw or lightly seared, or smoked trout or salmon. I've made it with all of the above, and it's simply fantastic!


I used whatever I had at hand, so get creative with the herbs and vegetables. Jicama instead of cucumber, cilantro instead of parsley, lime instead of lemon, onion or shallots instead of scallions, add a bit of diced capsicum or celery to the mix... so many ways to make these! 



On to the sea urchin. Although now most popularly associated with Japanese cuisine - sushi in particular - sea urchin is actually eaten in many coastal places including Chile, Italy, and Korea. Sea urchin roe is best as fresh as possible. A lot like oysters, it in fact, tastes incredible right when harvested from the ocean. If you're buying it from the store, check the packing date and use it within a day or two of the packing date.

These bruschette are quick to put together, and the lemony tang of the topping really complements the briny flavour of the roe. The quick 10 minutes of marinating with the lemon juice, tomatoes, and garlic also makes the roe velvety, almost melt-in-your-mouth. 

Bruschette with Sea Urchin
Makes: 4 large bruschette

Topping

- 1/2 cup sea urchin roe
- 1 Persian (or 1/2 English) cucumber, diced small
- 1/2 jalapeño pepper, diced small
- 4-5 cherry tomatoes, diced
- 1 small clove garlic, minced
- 3 scallions, chopped
- 3 tbsp. minced parsley
- 1/2 tsp. salt
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 1/2 tbsp. olive oil, extra virgin

Bread

- 4 thick slices of sourdough / other rustic bread
- 2 tsp. olive oil, extra virgin
  1. In a glass or ceramic bowl, mix all the topping ingredients and set aside for 10 minutes. 
  2. Turn on the broiler. Brush 1/2 tsp. olive oil on each slice of bread and broil till the edges are browned, 2 - 3 minutes, depending on your oven.
  3. Top the broiled bread with the topping (including a bit of the topping juice) and serve.

Monday, March 17, 2014

ENLIGHTENED: HOME-MADE CRÈME FRAÎCHE (OR CREMA MEXICANA)


I find crème fraîche (aka crema mexicana or table cream) much more subtle and delicious than sour cream. Find out more about the difference between crème fraîche and sour cream here. Although it's typically made with heavy cream, half-and-half (half cream, half milk) makes a delicious light crème fraîche with a luscious creamy consistency.

Crème fraîche is delicious in cream sauces, as a dip, or over fruit and savoury dishes, and it's so easy to make at home where you know exactly what goes into it. Commercial varieties in the US have unwarranted ingredients like guar gum, carrageenan, locust bean gum, whey, modified food starch, and potassium sorbate - a totally unnecessary preservative. Why bother with (and pay for) all that when you can have something that's fresh, clean, and healthy for less?!


Home-made Crème Fraîche (or Crema Mexicana)
Makes: 16 oz./2 cups

- 1 pint (16 oz./2 cups) half-and-half or cream, at room temperature
- 1/4 cup yogurt with live cultures (full fat, fat-free, or any fat content in between)
  1. Pour the half-and-half into a clean, dry, glass or plastic container.
  2. Whisk the yogurt till smooth, add to the half-and-half, stir well to mix.
  3. Cover partially and let it stand in a warm place for 12 - 24 hours, or until it's a consistency you like.
  4. Refrigerate for up to 10 days.

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

EATING SPRING: MUSHROOM AND ASPARAGUS RICE WITH TOASTED BLACK PEPPER




This is an easy and refreshing sattvic spring recipe that's so great on its own, with roasted vegetables like zucchini and carrots, or a salad of romaine lettuce and sliced cucumbers dressed with lemon juice and salt.

It won't be sattvic meal any more, but this rice would also be a terrific side with salmon, sea bass, barramundi (Asian seabass, bhetki in Bengali), or cod.

Ghee and black pepper are the big flavours in this dish, so if you use olive oil, the flavour will be very different. Butter will certainly work very well if you don't have ghee but it's heavier than ghee and not really a sattvic food.



Mushroom and Asparagus Rice with Toasted Black Pepper
Makes: approximately 4 servings (1-1/2 cups per serving)

- 1 cup basmati rice, soaked (at least 30 min, up to 24 hours)

- 3/4 lb. asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2 in. pieces
- 8 oz. crimini mushrooms, sliced
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 1 tbsp. salt
- 3/4 - 1 tbsp. toasted black peppercorns, coarsely ground
- 1 tbsp. spiced ghee, regular ghee, or butter
- 1-1/2 cups water
- 4 tbsp. finely chopped parsley (i.e. finely chop enough parsley to make 4 tbsp.)
  1. In a large pan on medium-high, heat the ghee. Lower the heat to medium and add the toasted peppercorns.
  2. Add the mushrooms, then minced garlic and saute (turn the heat down to medium-low if needed until the mushrooms release water, then turn it back up to medium to evaporate the water and finish sauteing the mushrooms.)
  3. Drain the rice well and set aside - you want minimal water on the rice.
  4. When the mushrooms are sauteed, keep the heat on medium and add the asparagus and drained rice and saute for 3-5 minutes or until the rice is opaque and looks mostly dry.
  5. Add the 1-1/2 cups water to the rice and vegetables and turn the heat up to high. Let the water come to a boil, add salt and stir.
  6. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer until the water is almost all absorbed. Then lower the heat to low, cover the pan and cook the rice until you can't see any water.
  7. Take the lid off and serve garnished with 1 tbsp. parsley per serving.
Notes:
  1. It's really not necessary to laboriously wipe the dirt off each mushroom. Give the mushrooms a quick wash and dry them thoroughly with paper or cotton dish towels before slicing.
  2. Trim off the dried bit of each mushroom stem, and keep the rest of the stem on, or remove and slice separately if it's easier to handle the mushrooms that way. If you must discard the stems from mushrooms for a recipe, save them and use to make mushroom stock, or use in a recipe where you can use sliced or diced mushrooms.