TACOS: CACTUS AND ROASTED POBLANO CHILES (NOPALES Y RAJAS POBLANAS)

Rajas poblanas (RRAa-has poblanas) are strips of roasted chile poblano (photo below), which range from mild to spicy. I love having the smoky flavour of the roasted chile and the surprise spice in a random bite of a taco! They're a classic in tacos but equally fantastic mixed in with beans, added to soups, as a filling for enchiladas/enfrijoladas/enguacatadas, on salads, nachos, on the side with eggs, in an omelette, or in sandwiches.

Fresh unripe poblanos are a deep gorgeous green, and turn into a fiery red when they ripen. Dried poblanos are called chile ancho, and are ubiquitous in most Mexican moles. Rajas poblanas is also a Mexican dish made with chile poblano rajas mixed with crema (Mexican sour cream), onions, and sometimes chicken. It's slightly rich, but one of my favourite Mexican dishes. In addition to tinga, posole, chile colorado, alambres, and all my other Mexican favourites!

Nopales, or cactus, is a very common ingredient in Mexican cuisine. In any good Mexican market you'll find either whole cactus paddles with thorns that you take home and clean and trim yourself, or bags of cleaned, trimmed, and diced cactus ready to cook. I usually get the cleaned and diced cactus because it's a time saver. Cactus can be cooked diced or  the whole cleaned and trimmed paddle can be roasted/grilled. And along with whole roasted jalapeños and spring onions, it's an excellent accompaniment to steak!

Tacos: Cactus and Roasted Poblano Chiles (Nopales y Rajas Poblanas)

makes: 6 tacos

- 1/2 cup chipotle cashew cream sauce

- 1/2 cup salsa: salsa verde (recipe here and here) or roasted tomato salsa

- 2 cups cleaned and diced cactus

- 1 chile poblano, washed

- 1/2 medium onion, diced

- 2 cloves garlic, minced

- 1 tbsp. olive oil

- 2 tsp. salt

- 12 small corn tortillas (ask the store for tortillas for tacos, which are smaller)

- 8-10 sprigs cilantro (1/4 cup coarsely chopped)

- 1/4 cup finely shredded purple cabbage (or red or green cabbage)

- 1 lime, cut into wedges

Optional garnishes: finely shredded carrots, sliced avocado, onions, jalapeno, pickled vegetables "en escabeche"

1. Cook the cactus: Bring water to a rolling boil in a large pan. Add the cactus and boil for about 15 minutes, or till the cactus is soft. Don't overcook the cactus till its mushy or you'll have a panful of slimy green pieces! Drain the cooked cactus and set aside. 
2. While the cactus is boiling, roast the chile poblano over an open flame or in a cast-iron pan until its charred on all sides. Remove from the heat and put it in a covered bowl for 15 minutes. Remove the charred and softened skin, rinsing off any residue. Cut the chile into half and discard the seeds. Cut the roasted chile into strips - "rajas" in Spanish. 
3. In a pan, heat the olive oil and add the onion and garlic. Sauté until translucent then add the cooked cactus and salt. Sauté for a few minutes till heated through. 
4. Transfer the chile poblano strips (rajas) and cactus into serving bowls. Arrange the cabbage, cilantro, and any optional garnishes in a platter. Warm the tortillas. 
5. Assemble the tacos: divide the tortillas among plates, stacking 2 per taco. Top with the rajas and cactus, cilantro, and cabbage. Drizzle 1 tbsp. each of the chipotle cashew cream sauce and salsa on each taco. 
6. Serve immediately with a wedge of lime, additional salsa, cashew cream sauce, and optional garnishes.

TACOS: ZUCCHINI FLOWERS AND FIDDLEHEAD FERNS

Zucchini flowers are most commonly served stuffed and fried. They're delicious that way, but the beautiful colours of the flowers are hidden under the batter and for me, food is about taste and looks. Not fake gimmicky presentations but just the natural good looks of fresh seasonal ingredients. Like the pretty zucchini flowers and ferns in these tacos!

Fiddlehead ferns are the unopened tips of Ostrich ferns that would turn into fronds when they open. They have a very short season in the Spring and don't last too long in the fridge so it's best to get some when you see them in the market (or in the wild if you know how to forage for the right kind of fern), and enjoy them right away, in a day or so at most. Fiddleheads upset some peoples' stomachs but they don't bother me at all. I don't like boiling them because that takes away the texture and taste. So I roast them and they're just perfect!

Zucchini flowers and fiddleheads are quite simple to clean. Zucchini flowers: Remove the pistil and stem from each zucchini flower and gently rinse each flower inside and out. Put the washed flowers on a large dry kitchen towel to soak up water.

Fiddlehead ferns: Remove the outer chaff - brown papery skin - from the ferns and rinse thoroughly. During rinsing remove any remaining chaff and put the washed ferns in a large dry kitchen towel to soak up water. 

These tacos are full of spring flavours and colours! And they go with virtually any salsa, including salsa verde with chiles de arbol, avocado and roasted tomatillo salsa, spicy roasted tomato salsa, guacamole, or even just sliced serranos, avocado, onion, and lime juice.

Tacos: Zucchini Flowers and Fiddlehead Ferns

makes: 6 tacos

- 1/2 cup chipotle cashew cream sauce

- 1/2 cup salsa: salsa verde (recipe here and here) or roasted tomato salsa

- 1 cup fiddlehead ferns, cleaned and washed

- 10 - 12 zucchini flowers, pistils removed and wiped cleaned with a damp towel

- 1 small zucchini, cut into small cubes

- 1/2 medium onion, diced

- 2 cloves garlic, minced

- 3 tsp. olive oil

- 2 tsp. salt

- 1 tsp. paprika

- 1 tsp. cumin

- 1 tsp. Mexican oregano (Italian or Greek will do if you don't have Mexican)

- 12 small corn tortillas (ask the store for tortillas for tacos, which are smaller)

- 8-10 sprigs cilantro (1/4 cup coarsely chopped)

- 1/4 cup finely shredded purple cabbage (or red or green cabbage)

- 1 lime, cut into wedges

Optional garnishes: finely shredded carrots, sliced avocado, onions, jalapeno, pickled vegetables "en escabeche"

1. Preheat the oven to 400 F/200 C. Lightly grease a baking tray or line with parchment paper.
2. Toss the cleaned fern heads with 1 tsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. salt, and paprika. Transfer to the prepared baking tray and roast for 15 min., turning once midway. Remove from the oven.
3. In a pan, heat the remaining 2 tsp. olive oil and add the onion and garlic. Sauté until translucent then add the zucchini, cumin, oregano, and salt. Cook till the zucchini is slightly soft and add the zucchini flowers. Stir the flowers in, and sauté for a minute. Turn the heat off.
4. Prep the tacos: Transfer the roasted fern heads and sautéed zucchini and flowers into serving bowls. Arrange the cabbage, cilantro, and any optional garnishes on a platter. Warm the tortillas.
5. Assemble the tacos: Divide the tortillas among plates, stacking 2 per taco. Top with the roasted fern heads and sautéed vegetables, cilantro, and cabbage. Drizzle 1 tbsp. each of the chipotle cashew cream sauce and salsa on each taco.
6. Serve immediately with a wedge of lime, additional salsa, cashew cream sauce, and optional garnishes.

SALSA VERDE WITH CHILES DE ARBOL

Chiles de arbol - fresh and dried - are very similar in appearance to cayenne chiles, which are typically used in Indian cooking, although the flavours of both chiles are somewhat different. Chiles de arbol are a bit woodsy and smokier than cayennes.

As a side note, in Gujarati, dried cayenne chiles are referred to as "vaghaar na marcha" - chiles used for tempering. We also pickle fresh cayenne chiles with mustard or lime, or eat them raw with a meal, sometimes dipped in salt before each bite. If you cannot find chiles de arbol in a store near you, you can use cayenne chiles for this salsa.

This spicy salsa is really easy to make and will no doubt become a regular in your fridge! It's great with chips, on tacos and enchiladas, as a simmer sauce, over baked/grilled meat or fish, with poached eggs, and - as shown above - even as a poaching sauce for eggs (thin it a bit with water first).

You can make it as spicy or mild as you want. To make it spicy, leave the seeds in the chile pods. To make it mild, break the chiles in half and shake out the seeds before roasting. Either way, it's a really delicious sauce!

Salsa Verde with Chiles de Arbol

makes: ~2 cups

- 8 - 10 chiles de arbol
- 5 medium tomatillos, husks removed, and washed well
- 1/2 medium onion (don't chop it)
- 2 cloves garlic, unpeeled
- 1/2 ripe avocado
- 1/4 bunch cilantro (15 - 20 stalks)
- 2 tsp. salt
- 1 lime, juiced
- 2 cups water

1. Heat a cast-iron or other heavy skillet. Fill a bowl or lidded container with 1 cup of the water.
2. Remove the stems of the chiles and toast on the skillet, stirring frequently to keep them from burning. Once the chiles smell fragrant and are lightly browned, remove from the heat and transfer to the container of water. Cover and let the chiles soak while you prepare the other ingredients.
3. Put the tomatillos, garlic, and onion (cut side down) in the hot skillet and roast, turning once or twice. Once the tomatillos are charred in spots and soft, the garlic is charred in spots, and the cut side of the onion is somewhat blackened, turn off the heat and leave to cool.
4. Peel the garlic, cut the onion and avocado into 2-3 large pieces, and drain the chiles.
5. Add the chiles, tomatillos, peeled garlic, onion, avocado, cilantro, salt, lime juice, and 1/2 cup water to a blender jar. Blend till you have a thick salsa (if you want a thinner salsa, add the other 1/2 cup water). Taste and adjust salt and lime.
6. Store in the fridge up to 3-4 days.