RECIPES

Saturday, September 21, 2019

CORSICA: THE MAQUIS, THE MOUNTAINS, THE SEA (#winophiles)


This month the French #winophiles are in Corsica, France. The small island - or what seems like a large mountain - in the Western part of the Mediterranean sea, sitting squarely across the water from Italy and France, with an inevitable political and cultural history of occupation by both. Although it has been a part of France for the last 250 years, Corsica was Italian (or, Genoese which is now Italian) for centuries before that and retains much of the language, culture, and proclivities from that time as well as its own identity formed from centuries of exposure to a whole slew of other cultures including Greek, Roman, and Moorish. Corsica also has the distinction of continuous human occupation since the Mesolithic era. That's the era 15,000 to 5,000 years Before Present (BP). I.e. a really long time ago.

SOIL, GEOLOGY
But not as long as 225 M years, which is how long ago some of the mountains on Corsica formed during one of Earth's geological periods called "mountain-building periods" when the earth, oceans, and tectonic plates shifted, collided, crumbled, layered, and pushed, resulting in mountains of various sizes. Although Corsica looks like one large mountain range, and little else, it's actually two large mountain ranges and little else. Islands conjure images of beaches, tanned bodies, etc. Not Corsica. As you can see in the NASA image below, nothing looks like a beach there, just mountain. Two distinctly different but rugged mountain ranges run N-S along the length of the island. The western range is volcanic/igneous rock, mainly granite, and the eastern range is sedimentary and metamorphic rock including limestone, schist, slate, flint, etc. that usually forms in compacted layers on the seabed.


Incidentally, the rocky soil in both of Corsica's mountain ranges is suitable for grapevines. E.g. the granitic soil of the western range allows high acidity in grapes, whereas the slate in the eastern range absorbs and reflects heat, helping to ripen grapes. Schist retains heat well, producing wines with rich minerality and limestone helps vines with nutrient and water uptake and also yields grapes and wines with bright acidity. And indeed wine-making has existed in Corsica since centuries ago when the Greeks introduced vitis vinifera to Corsica, although it has not always flourished. The most recent effort to organise the Corsican wine industry started in the 1960s with the first AOC being established in 1968. Now there are nine AOCs and a variety of grapes are used including Italian varieties. Some grapes are known there by their Italian names rather than French, such as Vermentino/Vermentinu rather than Rolle.

Image from NASA
FOOD, STORY

Along with a long history comes a strong culinary presence as well. Apart from its association with famous figures like Napoleon Bonaparte (who was from a family of Corsican vintners) and Roman philosopher Seneca (who was exiled there), Corsica is known for its candied fruit, pigs fed with wild herbs (maquis) and chestnuts, various charcuterie, seafood, and the unbelievable casgiu merzu, a maggot/larvae-filled cheese made by leaving whole tommes in air to allow flies to lay eggs... you can imagine the rest. It's unbelievable that someone would do that to a tomme. And it's unbelievable that it's a very expensive product. If you've read Asterix in Corsica, you know this cheese and its effect on unsuspecting non-Corsicans! If you haven't read Asterix in Corsica, see the photo above!




WINES


We chose one red and one white from Domaine Vico's Clos Venturi, Vin de Corse AOC which is an island-wide designation. Jean Vico, whose family produced wines for several generations, originally planted the domaine’s vineyards in 1901. In 1987 Jean-Marc Venturi purchased the property, replanted some of the vineyards and began improving the quality of the wine. At the end of the nineties, Emmanuel Venturi began working with his dad after studying winemaking on the island and doing some internships abroad. Domaine Vico covers 46 hectares, planted with local varieties Vermentinu, Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu, along with Grenache and Syrah. The vineyards complex soils contain schist, small rocks and sand, as well as some volcanic sediment, and the vines are planted at 300 - 400 m. After working the vineyards sustainably for 35 years, the domaine was awarded the HVE (High Environmental Value) certification in 2015 and has been in organic and biodynamic conversion since 2017.



2017 Clos Venturi White Wine, 13.5% ABV
100% Vermentinu (Rolle) | SRP $18
From the label: "Clos Venturi is not only the furthest Corsican winery from the sea, but also the highest with vineyards at 400 m (1312 ft). The grapes are planted on granite soil, hand-harvested, and aged in wood, clay, and concrete barrels and tanks."


The wine is deep lemon with aromas of lemon rind, white flowers, and faint honeysuckle. On the palate it has ripe lemon, lemon rind, quince, quinine, and faint honeysuckle in the back, with a sprightly acidity. The finish is medium. A delightful wine for a sunny day, salt cod brandade, and sea urchin bruschette!

2015 Clos Venturi Chiesa Nera, 14% ABV
40% Sciaccarellu, 30% Niellucciu, 10% Carcaghjolu Neru, 9% Minustellu, 4% Morescala, 3% Moresconu, 2% Aleático, and 2% Vermentinu (Rolle) SRP $36
From the label: "Chiesa Nera is a rare wine produced in very small quantities. Made with a variety of eight red and white grapes native to Corsica and aged in amphorae."


This elegant wine is medium ruby with complex aromas of blue and black fruit, violets, and fresh roses. On the palate the wine offers notes of blueberries, violets, red roses, fraises (wild strawberries), and a faint hint of black pepper rounded out by plush but firm tannins, a silky mouthfeel and a finish tending to long. Absolutely delicious!

We enjoyed it with lamb burgers seasoned with herbs typically meant by "maquis" - oregano, basil, thyme, mint, etc. Although our herbs were not wild, they were splendid with the lamb!

See below what the other winophiles did with their Corsican wine picks!

Wednesday, September 18, 2019

#WINOPHILES VISIT CORSICA IN SEPTEMBER: PREVIEW

https://www.graphicmaps.com/france

This month, September, the French Winophiles continue their love for French wines and wine regions with a focus on Corsica. That small oval-ish green highlighted island in the map above, that sidles up to Italy more than France. Corsica does what any island in the Mediterranean would do: offers locals and visitors beach life, immense history dating to the Mesolithic era, excellent SCUBA diving, snorkeling, and sailing, rugged terrain for hiking and other outdoor adventures, and of course, food and wine! Corsican food and wine have distinct Italian influences, but it took the French government and its proclivity to organise and categorise pretty much anything, to get the wine regions of Corsica organised into 9 AOCs starting in 1968.

You don't have to believe me about Corsican wine being a real thing, just have a look below at what the other #Winophiles are saying about it on their blogs and during our Twitter chat on 21 September at 8 AM PST. To join the Twitter chat, search for the hashtag #winophiles and jump in!
  • Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares "Friday Night Pizzas + Domaine Poli Niellucciu Rosé 2018"
  • Cathie from Side Hustle Wino shares "Wines from Corsica? Of "Corse"  (#winophiles)"
  • Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles shares "Corsica – An Island and it’s wines #Winophiles"
  • Martin from Enofylz Wine Blog shares "Mixiote de Pescado Paired with Domaine Petroni Corse Rosé"
  • Linda at My Full Wine Glass shares "Spaghetti and meatballs for a Corsican wine (#Winophiles)"
  • Gwen from Wine Predator shares "Corsica Rose with Salmon Crespelle and Currant Clafoutis #Winophiles"
  • Payal at Keep the Peas shares "Corsica: The Maquis, The Mountains, The Sea (#winophiles)"
  • Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm shares "Corsica; French with a lot of Italian Influence"
  • Cindy from Grape Experiences shares "Drench Yourself in the Sunshine of Corsica with Domaine Petroni Rosé Corse 2018 and Provençal Vegetable Gratin"
  • Nicole at Nibbling Gypsy shares "Corsican Happiness: Domaine Giacometti Sempre Cuntentu Sciaccarellu with a Flavorful Seafood Stew"

Monday, September 9, 2019

INVITATION TO JOIN THE #WINOPHILES VIRTUAL TASTING OF CORSICAN WINES

Come and enjoy a taste of island life: no planes, trains, or automobiles needed!

https://demystifyingthevine.com/new-world-countries-2/old-world-western-europe/france/france-corsica/
In September, the French Winophiles blogging group is exploring wines from Corsica, France, a storied island known for many things including Napoleon Bonaparte, the second highest mountain in the Mediterranean, really stinky cheese, and increasingly excellent wine. Offer ends in September so join us now and come ready to tell us your experience and impressions on 21 September 2019, when we meet over a casual Twitter chat at 8 AM PST!

When we think of wine and Corsica together, the first thing that comes to mind is... well we don't really think of wine and Corsica together, do we?! But Corsica, in addition to being continuously occupied by humans since the Mesolithic era (a whopping 15,000 years BP (Before Present)), has also enjoyed the fruits of labour of it's various occupations by the Greeks, Italians, and now, French. Corsican wine has existed since ~570 BC when the Greeks introduced vitis vinifera and viticulture there, as they did everywhere else including France and Italy. Since then wine has been somewhat of a spotty pursuit in Corsica but it has been on a steady uptick thanks to its nine AOC regions, starting in 1968. We are, unfortunately, not doing samples this month so we will each rely on our local well-stocked wine shops to have a go at Corsican wine... and perhaps food too. We hope you'll join us!

How to join us: 

  • Send me email to tell me you’re in: Include your blog url, Twitter handle, and any other social media details. If you know your blog post title, include that although you can really just send it to me anytime on/before 17th September. We’d like to get a sense of who’s participating and give some shout-outs and links as we go. You can contact me at pvora19@gmail.com 
  • Find a Corsican wine and perhaps food, and prepare your blog post. But don’t post it yet!
  • Send your blog post title to me by Tuesday, 17th September to be included in the preview post. I will prepare a preview post with links to everyone's blogs shortly after I get titles. Your title should include “#Winophiles” or you can simply append the hashtag to the end of your title.
  • Publish your post between Friday 20th September and 8:00 a.m. EST on Saturday, 21st September. You can always schedule your post in advance if you have commitments that morning.
  • Include links to the other #Winophiles participants in your post, and a description of what the event is about. Before Friday I’ll provide the HTML code that you can add  to your initial post so that your post includes links to participating Winophiles. 
  • Once all the posts are live, I’ll send the updated HTML list so you can update the permanent links to everyone’s #Winophiles posts. 
  • Get social! After the posts go live, please visit your fellow bloggers posts’ to comment and share. We've also got a Facebook group for participating bloggers to connect and share. 
  • Sponsored posts are OK if clearly disclosed. Please be sure to disclose if your post is sponsored or if you are describing wine or other products for which you have received a free sample.