SKINNY DIPPING: FETA, TANGERINE, AND HERB DIP

I'm not quite Marcel Duchamp, but this recipe is a bit like art with found objects. Objects you find in your fridge or pantry, that want to be seen in a new perspective. Objets trouvés, of a different kind.

It takes all of 5 minutes to put together, not counting the time to dig through the fridge and cupboards for the ingredients. I had some feta in the fridge that I didn't really like on its own with anything, so I figured I'll dress it up a bit with parsley, tangerine juice, and seasonings. Then I also saw a grapefruit and I thought, hmmm...

You can use cilantro if you want, or dill, as long as you're using fresh herbs because the herb-y flavour should really come through. Vary the proportions to what you have on hand. The important thing is to combine flavours that work well together.

Feta, Orange, and Herb Dip
Makes: approx. 1 cup

- 3/4 cups feta cheese
- 1/4 cup fresh parsley
- 1 tbsp dried or fresh rosemary
- 1 clove garlic, peeled
- 2 tsp. red or black pepper
- 1/3 cup tangerine and/or grapefruit juice (juice from 1 tangerine, 1/2 grapefruit)

1. In this order put the: feta, parsley, garlic, pepper, and juice in a blender. Blend till smooth. 
2. Serve with crackers, pita, crostini, crudités, roasted vegetables, as a sandwich spread, or tossed with pasta.

HOW TO ROAST A WHOLE PUMPKIN, AND PUMPKIN SOUP

The pumpkin roasts itself, and the soup nearly makes itself! Can't get much easier - and more autumn - than this. You can roast, peel, and cut the pumpkin a day or two before and store it in the fridge to save on prep time.

Serve with grilled cheese or baked polenta with vegetables for an easy weeknight dinner.

Any winter squash - butternut, acorn, delicata, spaghetti squash - can be roasted like this. Smaller squashes will take less time so keep an eye on the oven, checking the squash periodically after the initial 30 minutes of cooking.

Roasted Pumpkin and Pumpkin Soup
Makes: 6 generous servings

- 1 6 lb sugar pumpkin or any other cooking pumpkin
- 32 oz. vegetable broth
- 1 medium yellow onion, cut into large chunks
- 3 cloves garlic, cut into a few large pieces
- 1 tbsp. coconut oil (or any other cooking fat of choice)
- 2 tsp. salt
- 1-1/2 tsp. curry powder
- 1 tsp. cumin powder
- 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
- 1 tsp. sugar

Optional, for garnish:
- 6 tbsp. roasted pumpkin seeds
- Or any one of the following: cream, yogurt, pumpkin oil, shaved Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

Roasted Pumpkin:

1. Preheat the oven to 375 F / 190 C.
2. Remove any stickers from the pumpkin, wash, and put the whole pumpkin on a rimmed baking pan and into the oven.
3. Let it roast for 1 hour or until a knife can be easily inserted into the pumpkin. (If you're making pumpkin soup, now's the time to saute the onions and garlic - see recipe below).
4. Remove the pan from the oven, and make a couple of cuts in the pumpkin to let steam out.
5. After 20 minutes or so, cut the pumpkin in half and let the halves cool on the pan.
6. When it's cool enough to handle, use a spoon to remove the seeds and strings from the seed pocket. Make sure to remove all the stringy bits.
7. Cut each pumpkin half into 3 wedges and pull the skin off. The skin will be papery and separate already from roasting so it'll come right off without a knife.
8. Make pumpkin soup (recipe below).
9. Or, mash or blend the pulp and use within 2 days or freeze immediately up to a month.

Roasted Pumpkin Soup:

1. While the pumpkin is roasting, heat the coconut oil (or whatever cooking fat you're using) on medium heat and sautee the onion and garlic. Let it all cool.
2. Break the roasted pumpkin wedges (see step 7 above) into pieces and put in a blender.
3. Add the sautéed onions and garlic, salt, sugar, and all the spices.
4. Add 2 cups broth or enough to be able to blend everything into a thick purée until no stringy bits or chunks remain. Add the rest of the broth.
5. If it's too thick, add water (or milk/cream) to get a consistency you like.
6. Before taking it out of the blender, taste and adjust seasonings, blend it all one last time.
7. Transfer to a pan and reheat the soup to a simmer.
8. Ladle into bowls.
9. Garnish each bowl with a tbsp. of the roasted pumpkin seeds before serving.

GOUGÈRES: BAKED CHEESE PUFFS

The French have done it again. They may have been fashionably late in nearly every one of the America's Cup races here in San Francisco, but they've been trailblazers when it comes to revolutions. I'm referring to revolutions of our taste buds, of course. Not any that were the consequence of inappropriately timed discussions on whether the members of the public ought to eat cake.

So back to the French and their food alchemy... take the gougère for example. Flour, eggs, cheese, salt, pepper. And sometimes herbs or other seasonings. All spooned onto a tray and baked for a bit. Et voila! Un amuse-bouche, comme il faut! Make them a bit large, make them quite small and bite-sized, serve as an amuse-bouche, or hors d'oeuvre. However you serve them, they're delicious. They're perfect even if you don't have company. On evenings when you're feeling peckish and want just wine, olives, nuts, crudités, and something just a bit more.

This is quite a versatile recipe. Usually I use Gruyère or Comté (the French version of Gruyère, and also called Gruyère de Comté) cheese and don't add much other than salt and pepper. But this time around I had the last bit of parsley and a serrano pepper that needed to be used, a lovely hunk of salty, grainy Pecorino Romano and a small bit of aged Gouda so I used those. The important thing is to use good quality cheese since you will definitely taste it. Also be careful when using soft wet cheeses like blue cheese or goat cheese because they can make the dough too wet, causing the gougères to deflate. They'll still taste fine, so if this happens, no need to panic.

Gougères will keep their shape even after cooled, so make them a few hours or even a day ahead of when you want to serve them. Rewarm in a 350 F / 180 C oven for 5-7 minutes or until warmed, and enjoy!

Gougères: Baked Cheese Puffs

Makes: approximately 30 gougères

- 1/2 cup + 2 tbsp water
- 3 tbsp butter, salted or unsalted, cut into cubes
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 large eggs
- 1/4 cup minced parsley

- 1 serrano pepper, finely chopped 

- 3 ounces (approx. 3/4 cup) grated cheese, Pecorino Romano, Gruyère, Comté, or a combination of cheeses

- 1/4 teaspoon salt (optional) - You won't need salt if you use salty cheese like Pecorino Romano, Grana Padano, or Parmigiano Reggiano.

1. Preheat the oven to 425F / 220 C. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Heat the water, butter, and salt, if using, in a saucepan until the butter is melted.
3. Dump in the flour all at once and stir vigorously until the mixture pulls away from the sides into a smooth ball.
4. Remove from heat and let the dough rest for a couple of minutes - this is important!
5. Add the eggs, one at a time, stirring quickly to make sure the eggs don’t ‘cook’. The batter will look a bit lumpy, but after a minute or so, as you stir it will smooth out. (You can do this step of mixing in the eggs in a food processor or electric mixer, but I've never needed to do that.)
6. Add the grated cheese, parsley, and chopped serrano, and stir everything until well-mixed.
7. Make small 1 in. balls from the dough and put on the baking tray. If your dough is wetter and can't be rolled into balls - sometimes mine is, depending on what cheese I use of how large the eggs are - use two spoons to mound the mixture on to the baking tray.
8. Bake for 10 minutes, then turn the oven down to 375 F / 190 C and bake for an additional 15 minutes, until the gougères are completely golden brown.
9. Serve warm.

CAULIFLOWER GRATIN OR, HOW TO MAKE BÉCHAMEL SAUCE

Nothing fancy here, just a classic French homey gratin, and as much a comfort food of childhood as now. Gratin refers to the pan in which this is cooked, and so all things cooked in a gratin are gratin. :-) With a salad and perhaps bread, this is an easy dinner. It's a make-ahead kind of dish that can sit in the oven for as long as an hour without drying out thanks to the béchamel sauce.

It's also quite a versatile dish - if you want, add a cubed potato or two to the cauliflower. Traditionally, you rub the gratin pan with garlic but I add minced garlic to the béchamel. Sometimes I add a chopped shallot as well. Contrary to what some recipes say, the classic gratin does not require cream of any kind. Just milk - preferably whole, but at least 2%. Skim milk is a waste of time.

In this gratin the star of the show is the béchamel sauce - one of the mother sauces of French cuisine, best presented in Escoffier's Le Guide Culinaire or his 800 page, 2000 recipe compendium Ma Cuisine. I bought a hardbound old copy of Ma Cuisine for $2 at a used book store in Half Moon Bay years ago. I have no idea why anyone would get rid of this book, but they did, and I scored! Anyway so béchamel is the base of other sauces such as Mornay and soubise. The quality of bechamel however, depends on the quality of the roux. Roux is nothing more than about equal parts of flour and butter - slightly more flour than butter - cooked together to form a binder for the other ingredients. There's brown roux, pale roux, and white roux. The color of the roux, logically, will determine the colour of your sauce.

Gratins such as potatoes dauphinoise, this cauliflower gratin, and other recipes where béchamel sauce is used, require a white roux which is used for white sauces. A brown roux is used for dishes that call for a brown sauce, and a pale roux is used for veloutés - velvety cream sauces.

Béchamel is really easy to make once you can make roux correctly. Cook the roux on a low-medium flame, never medium or high. You want to allow time for the starch cells in the flour to burst so that the butter combines with the starch without burning the starch (which high heat will do, and therefore require more roux in your béchamel which therefore will be really sludgy and overpower the other ingredients). You will see that as the starch and butter combine, the flour-butter mixture goes from the initial large clump to a soft, loose, stir-able mixture. And it will smell nutty. 

It's very important to keep an eye on the roux when it starts to smell nutty because then it will turn colour from white to brown - which we don't want for béchamel. So once it's loose and stir-able, cook for a minute or so and add the milk, salt, pepper, and whatever seasonings and spices you're using.

Cauliflower Gratin: Gratin de Chou-Fleur

Makes: 4 servings

- 1-1/2 lbs florets of white cauliflower

- 5 tbsp unsalted butter
- 6 tbsp all-purpose flour

- 3 cups milk, 2% or whole
- 1-1/2 tsp sea salt or any other good quality salt
- 1 tsp freshly ground black or white pepper

- 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg

- 1 clove garlic, minced or chopped
- 3 cloves, whole (don't use powdered!)

- 1/4 cup shallot, finely chopped (optional)
- 1/2 cup grated Comté, Gruyere, Emmenthaler, or Pecorino Romano cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F / 180 C.
2. Boil a generous amount of water - enough to completely submerge the cauliflower - in a large stainless steel pan and add the cauliflower florets. Bring everything to a boil, and cook, uncovered, for about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside. Or you can steam the cauli for 5 minutes.
3. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the flour and cook over low heat for about 2 minutes, stirring with a whisk. Don't let the mixture brown - it should be white, maybe very slightly off-white. 
4. When the flour-butter mixture feels and looks loose and smells nutty, add the milk and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly to prevent it from burning or sticking to the pan.
5. Simmer over low heat for 2 minutes. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, garlic, and cloves if using. Bring to a boil. Remove from the heat.
6. At this point you can remove the whole cloves if you want, but I always leave them in because they don't overpower the flavour and give the gratin a warm fragrance which I love.
7. Generously butter or oil a gratin dish. Put half of the cauliflower florets in the dish and evenly pour half of the béchamel over the florets.
8. If using shallots, sprinkle the chopped shallots over the béchamel, add the remaining cauliflower florets and evenly pour the remaining béchamel over the florets.
9. Sprinkle with the cheeses and bake for about 30 minutes, or until golden brown.
10. Pull the bubbling gratin out of the oven and let it stand for 10-15 minutes before serving.
11. Enjoy!