CHOCOLATE ALMOND CANTUCCI (BISCOTTI)

Adapted from Alice Waters' The Art of Simple Food, one of my favourite American cookery books.

Cantucci are made to last a long time so the dough has no perishable fats that could go rancid (oil, butter, etc.), so if anyone is trying to pass off cantucci containing any fat other than eggs, they're not cantucci! These are also known as biscotti (biscuits) outside Italy/Europe. But really, they're a specific biscotti from Prato. Regardless, they come together in no time and are very versatile... delicious with pine nuts or any other nut, raisins, chocolate shavings, etc.

They're supposed to be very dry, and are usually enjoyed dipped into coffee or a sweet dessert wine - traditionally Vin Santo -  when they soften a bit, making them bite-able.

Chocolate Almond Cantucci (Biscotti)
Makes 2-3 dozen biscuits, depending on the size of the loaf and thickness of slices

- 2 cups sliced almonds
- 1-3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup cocoa powder (unsweetened)
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tbsp almond or vanilla extract
- 3 eggs, room temperature
- 1 cup sugar
- 2 tsp citrus zest (lemon or any type of orange)

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F/175 C. Spread the sliced almonds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until just fragrant, about 7 min.
2. In a large bowl beat the eggs, sugar, vanilla (or almond) extract, and zest until the mixture falls in a nice ribbon (3-4 min.).
3. Mix in the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt, and fold the almonds into the dough (it will be a very stiff batter rather than a dough).
4. On a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, divide the dough into two portions. Shape into 3-4 in. wide logs using moistened hands so it doesn't stick. The dough will spread a bit so space logs at least 3-4 in. apart. Re-moisten hands as needed and smoothen out any lumps or unevenness in the logs.
5. Bake until just firm, 25-30 min. Remove from the oven and cool for 10-15 min. (If baked or cooled for too long the logs might harden, making it difficult to slice them so do keep and eye on the time).
6. Reduce the oven temperature to 300 F/150 C.
7. Remove each cooled log from the parchment and set on a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, cut log into diagonal slices, about 1/2 in. thick  Lay the slices on the baking sheet - they can be quite close together, don't need to be spaced (use two baking sheets if needed, although I have never needed to do that).
8. Bake cut cantucci for 10 min., then flip onto the other side and bake another 10-15 minutes until crisp.
9. Enjoy with a coffee, espresso, or a dessert wine. The crumbs from cutting the biscuits are terrific on ice-cream! 

CHOCOLATE POTS DE CREME

Chocolate Pots de Creme

makes: 10 servings

- 10 oz. (300 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

- 1-1/2 cups cream

- 1-1/2 cups whole milk

- 4-1/2 tbsp sugar

- 1 espresso (or 1 tsp instant coffee powder - optional)

- 1 tsp salt

- 7 egg yolks

- 1 tbsp vanilla extract

- to garnish: your choice of fresh raspberries, chopped pistachios, whipped cream, shaved chocolate, etc.

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F (175 C).  Set 10 4- to 6-ounce ramekins or custard cups in a roasting pan or deep baking dish. Or split between two pans like I did, if you don't have a large enough pan to fit all the containers.
2. Put the chocolate in a large heatproof bowl. In a medium saucepan, heat the half-and-half, sugar, instant espresso or coffee powder, if using, and salt until quite hot, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour the hot half-and-half mixture over the chocolate and whisk until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth. Let cool until tepid, then whisk in the egg yolks and the vanilla. (If the mixture looks at all grainy, whisk well or purée in a blender until smooth.)
3. Transfer the custard mixture to a large measuring cup or pitcher and divide evenly among the ramekins.
4. Fill the roasting pan or baking dish with warm water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and bake until the perimeters of the custards are just set and the centers are still slightly jiggly, about 35 minutes.
5. Transfer the custards from the water bath to a wire rack and let cool.
6. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature, garnished with small mounds of whipped cream, raspberries and chopped pistachios.

RAW BLUEBERRY LEMON "CHEESECAKE"

This clean refreshing yet rich dessert is totally free of dairy, refined sugars, soy, grains, and eggs. And it's so easy to put together! Its gorgeous enough to serve at a party, or just to enjoy over a cozy dessert date. In short, it's a no-fail recipe! And, no one will be able to tell that it's totally dairy-free.

If you don't have blueberries, use raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, or whatever fruit you'd like. Make sure it's not a watery fruit like watermelon or your cream filling won't be as thick. Also use very ripe fruit so you can have a luscious, sweet tasting cream filling rather than a bland one.

The cashew cream is quite light tasting but in fact this dessert is quite rich thanks to all the nuts and dried fruits. So I wouldn't recommend eating it as a meal, although some of us might want to :-) 

Raw Blueberry Lemon "Cheesecake"

makes: 8 - 10 servings

Crust:

- 10 dried medjool dates (or any other variety of dates)

- 8 - 10 dried figs (~1/2 - 3/4 cups)

- 1/2 cup sprouted raw almonds (or unsprouted will do as well)

- 1/2 cup raw hazelnuts (or any other kinds of nut)

Cream Filling:

- 2-1/2 - 3 cups cashews (soaked overnight)

- 2 cups fresh blueberries

- 1/2 cup raw honey

- 1/4 cup raw unrefined coconut oil

- 2 lemons, juiced

- 1 tbsp. vanilla extract

1. Line an 8 in. spring-form tin or any similarly sized container with wax paper (or plastic wrap), leaving a little extra over the edge. Make room in the freezer for the lined tin. Drain the cashews really well.
2. Put the ingredients for the crust into a food processor and pulse until the mixture resembles crumbs. Transfer to the lined tin and press firmly into an even layer. Put it into the freezer while you make the filling.
3. Except the blueberries, add the ingredients for the filling into the food processor (you can use a blender for this but why use two gadgets when you can clean just one?!) and blend until smooth. Taste and adjust the sweetness, or add more lemon if you want it more lemony.
4. Remove the tin with the crust from the freezer and spread half of this filling over the crust to make a thick layer. If you're making this on a warm day, put the tin back into the freezer while you make the next layer. If it's cool enough, no need to freeze the tin while you make the blueberry cream layer.
5. For the blueberry cream layer: add the fresh blueberries to the remaining filling in the food processor and blend into a smooth, blueberry-flecked cream. Take the tin out of the freezer and spread the blueberry cream over the first layer. Freeze the whole thing for a few hours, or overnight until firm.
6. Thaw for 15 or 20 minutes, slice, serve, enjoy! Refrigerate or freeze leftovers.

EASY PUMPKIN PECAN CAKE (AND A CHURCH WITH A STORIED PAST)

This is an easy cake full of autumn flavours... the warm spices, buttery pecans, and gorgeous pumpkin colour make it irresistible! It takes almost no time to prep and makes the kitchen smell *amazing*! You can use walnuts or almonds instead of pecans.

Pecans are native to the US and Mexico, and are the only type of tree nut that grows naturally in the US. The thin-shelled variety that we all know and enjoy was developed in the mid-1800s by an obviously brilliant slave gardener in Louisiana, using grafts from a wild pecan variety with large, thin-shelled nuts. Pecan trees with large and small nuts are very commonly seen throughout the Louisiana countryside, even in parking lots! Free pecan picking!

I used Louisiana pecans that came from the tree in the photo below. I was back in  western Louisiana for a few days and went to one of my favourite places: the St. Augustine Catholic Church (behind the tree). It's a small church in Isle Brevelle, LA, a small town - mostly  Creole community - of descendants of French and Spanish colonials, Africans, Native Americans, and Anglo-Americans. The area is calm and extremely beautiful with tree-lined roads winding along the Cane River. The church was established by Nicolas Augustin Metoyer, a freed slave and son of former slave Marie Thérèse Coincoin (read more about her here), and is the first church built by and for free people of colour in Louisiana. After being freed, the Metoyer family went on to own their own plantation - now known as Melrose Plantation - and the church is on land that was then a part of the Metoyers' plantation. Behind the church is a cemetery with headstones dating back to the 1800s, and a handful of recurring last names including Metoyer.

The parking lot is lined with several mature pecan trees and pecan season is October through December. In November, I was in luck! There were pecans all over the ground under the trees... I enjoyed a lot of them while walking around near the river, and brought a lot back to CA. Something local, something natural, something edible: my favourite type of souvenir!

 

Easy Pumpkin Pecan Cake

makes: 12-14 servings

- 1 cup oil (any neutral oil: safflower, grapeseed, or other)

- 3 eggs

- 1 (15 oz.) can pumpkin puree (or 1-3/4 cups pureed roasted pumpkin)

- 1 tbsp. vanilla extract

- 2 cups sugar (I use demerara but any sugar will do)

- 2-1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

- 1 teaspoon baking soda 

- 2 tsp. apple pie spice (or an equal parts mix of allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon)

- 1/4 teaspoon salt

- 1/2 cup coarsely chopped raw pecans

1. Preheat oven to 350 F / 175 C. Grease one 10-in. bundt pan (or any other cake pan).
2. In a large bowl, cream together the oil, beaten eggs, pumpkin and vanilla. Sift the flour, sugar, baking soda, apple pie spice, and salt together.
3. Add the flour mixture to the pumpkin mixture and mix until just combined. Stir in the pecans and pour the batter into the prepared pan.
4. Bake for 55 min. to 1 hour, or until a tester (I use a bbq skewer) inserted in the middle comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 minutes then turn out onto a plate and dust with confectioners sugar.
5. Serve plain or with ice-cream, whipped cream, or warm custard.

MENDIANTS AU CHOCOLAT

Just thinking about mendiants au chocolat gets me excited! They're beautiful, smell heavenly, taste delicious, have a romantic side to them, and a plateful presents endless possibilities. Basically like a roomful of ideal men!

Mendiants au chocolat are a traditional southern French Christmas-time confection of chocolate discs topped with nuts and dry fruits. Mendiants - mendicants or beggars in English - refers to the four monastic orders in the Church: Dominican, Franciscan, Carmelite, and Augustinian. Each order is represented by a specific topping based on the colour of their robes: hazelnuts for the Augustinians, raisins for the Dominicans, figs for the Franciscans, and almonds for the Carmelites.

I really love this romantic way of commemorating the orders and thinking about them at an important time of the year for Catholics and others alike. I equally love the elegant simplicity of mendiants au chocolat. And the versatility of toppings that creates a variety of textures and flavours on the tongue. Like a party that lasts all night... and if you know me, you know how much I love a party!

I make them during the holiday season as one of my edible homemade gifts when I go to parties or have friends over, but I also make them throughout the year. I think they make a really lovely gift at any time. Get creative with toppings: nuts, dried fruits, bits of biscuits or pretzel sticks, fleur de sel or other coarse natural salt, candied flowers, candied ginger or other fruits, fruit peels, pumpkin seeds...

While you don't need to stick to the traditional toppings, be mindful to keep the mendiants bite sized and don't crowd the small discs of chocolate. You want the chocolate to come through as much as the toppings. So use the best quality milk or dark chocolate you can find, and a few excellent toppings.

Mendiants au Chocolat

makes: ~ 3 dozen

- 16 oz. Callebaut 60% or other top quality dark chocolate  - not couverture (I use Valrhona or Callebaut, but Scharffenberger or Ghirardelli will do)

- nuts (raw or roasted): cashews, almonds, pistachios, hazelnuts, walnuts, pecans...

- dried fruits

- candied ginger, orange peel, or candied flowers
- dried coconut flakes 

- dried herbs: rosemary, mint

- biscuits

- salt: fleur de sel, pink Himalayan, black Cyprus sea salt flakes

1. Line a few baking trays or other flat work surface with parchment paper.
2. Completely melt the chocolate in a double boiler (temper if you wish, but it's not necessary).
3. Using a 1/2 tsp. measure, drop the molten chocolate onto the prepared parchment paper. It will naturally form a circle - resist the temptation to spread the chocolate into a circle, let it form naturally.
4. Top with a combination of toppings and allow to cool completely. Refrigerate till the chocolate is hardened.
5. Store in the fridge for up to 4 days.

AN EASY CLASSIC: CREME BRULEE

Does the creme really need to be brûlée? No. Because really, once you bake the custard in a bain marie, it's cooked, and perfectly edible. And of course there are plenty of baked custards that aren't made with a burnt sugar topping: flan or creme caramel, for example. But the crunch of the caramelised sugar with the silky custard underneath is just such an enjoyable sensation that the extra step to make the caramelised sugar layer is totally worth it.

Is the bain-marie essential? Yes, because it keeps the hot oven air moist for the top of the custard and also protects the delicate egg custards from curdling or breaking.

Flavour-wise, I find that the classic vanilla custard is best, perhaps with the addition of a complementary addition like citrus, almond, or hazelnut liqueur. If you must, serve berries or other accompaniments separately rather than adding into the custard. If you're adding solid flavourings like a scraped vanilla bean, citrus rind, nutmeg, etc. then certainly strain the custard before pouring into ramekins. Also strain if your egg yolk mixture wasn't properly tempered and has bits of curdled yolk - it happens sometimes, it won't affect the flavour of the custard so keep calm and strain on.

Also resist the temptation to make the caramelised sugar layer more than 5 minutes in advance of serving - the sugar will just melt into the custard and you won't have a crunchy layer anymore. When you caramelise the sugar, the chilled custard underneath quickly cools the caramel and hardens it, creating that crunchiness. But it has to be done *just* before serving.

Creme Brûlée 
Makes: 6 servings

Custard
- 6 large egg yolks
- 7 tablespoons sugar
- 2-1/4 cups whipping cream
- 2 tsp. vanilla extract
- 2 tbsp. Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur (optional)

- 6-8 ceramic ramekins 

- 2 in. or deeper oven-safe pan large enough to hold the ramekins (if you don't have a pan large enough to hold all ramekins, bake the custard in batches)

Caramelised Sugar Crust

- 3-4 tbsp. sugar (I use turbinado or demerara sugar but white sugar will work)

- a working blow-torch to make the burnt sugar crust

1. Preheat oven to 325 F / 165 C.
2. Bring cream to simmer in a small saucepan. Remove from the heat and let it settle for 5 minutes.
3. Whisk egg yolks and 7 tbsp. sugar in a medium bowl until thick and pale yellow, about 2 minutes.
4. Temper the yolk mixture so it doesn't curdle and get lumpy:
1. Mix in 4 tbsp. (1/4 cup) hot cream into the yolk mixture. Repeat.
5. Whisk in the remaining hot cream into the yolk mixture. Whisk in Grand Marnier and vanilla. 
6. Divide custard among the ramekins. Arrange the ramekins in the oven-safe pan. Make a bain-marie to protect the custards while baking:
1. Pour hot water into the pan to be level with the custard inside the ramekins. The water will protect the custard from browning / burning.
7. Bake custards until gently set in center, 25 - 30 minutes.
8. Remove the pan from the oven and remove the custards from the bain-marie. 
9. Cool custards completely and refrigerate uncovered until fully set and chilled, 3 - 24 hrs. 
10. Just before serving, make the burnt sugar crust:
1. Remove the custards from the fridge and sprinkle an even layer of 1/2 tbsp. sugar onto each.
2. Use the blow-torch per instructions to burn the sugar - you will see it melt. Let it sit for a minute or so and serve.