"SKINNY" FRIES: BEST OVEN-ROASTED POTATOES!

Use starchy potatoes for this, not waxy. Waxy potatoes don't have enough starch to turn into sugar during roasting and won't get the beautiful brown caramel tones from the Maillard reaction. Soaking the cut potatoes draws out the starch to the surface, which turns into simple sugar at high heat during roasting. The surface sugar browns to the warm caramel colour at high heat. Thank heavens for the Maillard reaction!

Starchy potatoes: Russet (Idaho), Atlantic, Kennebec, Sebago, Spunta, purple potatoes, Bintje

Waxy potatoes: Red potatoes, Yukon Gold or other yellow potatoes, new potatoes, Nicola, Patrone

"Skinny" Fries: Best Oven-Roasted Potatoes!

Servings: 2, if you decide to share

- 2 large russet (Idaho) or other starchy potatoes

- a large pot of cold tap water

- 2-3 tbsp. peanut oil or coconut oil - olive oil will do if you don't have any other oil

- 2 tsp. salt

- dried herbs and seasonings to taste: freshly ground black pepper, smoked paprika, any other paprika, powdered chipotle peppers, thyme, rubbed sage, curry powder, or lots of salt and malt vinegar (just before eating otherwise the fries will become soggy)

- 2 kitchen towels or paper towels

Variations:

- Garlic Fries: 2 cloves minced garlic, 2 tsp. salt

- Truffle Parmesan Fries: 2 tbsp. finely grated good quality Parmigiano Reggiano, 1 tsp. truffle oil or truffle butter, 1-2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, salt to taste

1. Pre-heat oven to 450 F/230 C.

2. Fill a large pot with cold tap water.

3. Peel (or not) and cut the potatoes into approximately 1/4" sticks (no thicker than the width of penne pasta, not rigatoni).

4. Put the cut potatoes in the water and let them soak for 1-8 hours. Minimum 1 hour, maximum 8 hours, anywhere in between.

5. Strain the potatoes and dry: lay a towel on the countertop, put the strained potatoes on the towel in a single layer, put the other towel on top, gently press to soak up water.

6. Put the potatoes in a bowl and toss with oil.

7. Bake at 450 F/230 C for 20-25 minutes, checking periodically starting at 20 minutes.

8. Take fries out and let them cool for a minute or so.

9. In the meantime, mix the salt and all the seasonings and toss with the fries in a bowl.

10. Serve with... well, just eat them however you want!

Variations:

- Garlic Fries: mix the minced garlic and 2 tsp. salt, toss with the fries.

- Truffle Parmesan Fries: mix the Parmigiano Reggiano, truffle oil or truffle butter, black pepper, salt, toss with fries.

Notes:

1.  I use pink Himalayan salt or black salt for everything since those are the only salts I buy and have on hand.

CRANBERRY BEAN, ROASTED CORN, AND SWEET POTATO STEW

I always fall for good looks. Cranberry beans, or borlotti beans in Italian are probably the most beautiful of all beans, with gorgeous pink streaks all over their cream background. The flavour is quite creamy and subtle, and although they are related to kidney beans, they taste totally different. I would not recommend substituting kidney beans in this recipe.

Sorry for the blah photos, but I was really short on time when I was making this stew.

Cranberry Bean, Roasted Corn, and Sweet Potato Stew

makes: 4 servings

- 1 tbsp. coconut oil

- 1 small onion, diced

- 3 cloves garlic, minced

- 1 tsp. smoked paprika

- 1 tsp. ground cumin

- 1 tsp. dried oregano

- 1 tsp. crushed red pepper

- 3 plum (or 10 cherry) tomatoes, chopped or pureed in a food processor

- 2 cups (or 1 can) cooked cranberry beans

- 3 cups vegetable stock

- 2 cups sweet potato, peeled and chopped into 1-1/2 in. cubes

- 1-1/2 cups roasted corn kernels (fresh or frozen, like the ones from Trader Joe's)

- 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped

- salt and crushed red pepper, to taste

1. In a stock pot over medium heat, sauté onions in coconut oil for a few minutes, until translucent.

2. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute or until fragrant.

3. Add sweet potato and stir, cook for 3-4 minutes.

4. Stir in smoked paprika, crushed red pepper, cumin, oregano, tomatoes, and beans, and cook for 5 minutes.

5. Add vegetable stock and 1 tsp. salt.

6. Bring to a boil, and then lower heat and simmer uncovered, for 15 minutes or until sweet potatoes are tender.

7. Add roasted corn and cilantro, and simmer for another 5-10 minutes.

8. Add salt and additional crushed red pepper to taste.
9. Garnish with fresh cilantro. 
10. Serve with bread, white or wild rice, quinoa, millet, or salad.

Notes:

1. Add diced carrots if you have them.
2. Since olive oil is unstable and oxidizes at high heat, I use coconut oil for sauteeing usually. Unless I'm making something where the coconut oil flavour won't match the ingredients.

CACIO E PEPE, TOASTED PEPPERCORNS

Smoky, toasted peppercorns are the only way I use pepper now! And pasta cacio e pepe... well it's pasta, olive oil, cheese, pepper, what's not to love?!

Toasted Peppercorns

makes: 1/2 cup

- 1/2 cup good quality black peppercorns (Tellicherry or such) 

- pan that can hold the peppercorns in 1 layer (I use a cast-iron skillet)

1. Put the peppercorns in the pan and turn on the heat to medium-low to toast.
2. Toss or stir occasionally until the peppercorns are fragrant.
3. When you smell the aroma, turn off the heat
4. Immediately remove the peppercorns into a bowl - they will continue to toast and then burn if you leave them in the hot pan.
5. Let the peppercorns cool completely and store in a jar.

Cacio e Pepe

makes: 2 servings

- 1/4 lb. pasta of choice (I used spaghetti this time; I don't use whole wheat pasta) 

- 1 tbsp. olive oil

- 1/3 cup good Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, finely grated

- 1 tsp. toasted pepper, coarsely ground

1. Bring a medium sized pot of salted water to a boil.

2. Add the pasta and boil until al dente, turn off the heat.

3. Heat olive oil in a pan, add a generous 1/2 tsp. coarsely ground toasted pepper.

4. Using tongs, remove the pasta from the water and add to the pan.

5. Swirl the pasta to coat with olive oil and pepper.

6. Turn off the heat.

7. Add the grated cheese immediately and swirl until the cheese coats the pasta.

8. Serve with additional cheese and pepper to taste. Here I've served it with roasted mushrooms, green beans, and brussels sprouts.

Notes:

1. 1/4 lb. pasta (long shapes like spaghetti, naturally you can't measure short pasta this way!) is a bunch approximately 1 inch in diameter.

2. Make an approximately 1 inch circle with your index finger and thumb. Whatever fits in the circle is roughly 2 servings.

FUNGUS AMONG US: SAUTEED MUSHROOMS

Gorgeous mushrooms that make a terrific topping for crostini, or a side dish. Shown here are yellow and brown tree oysters, maitake (hen of the woods), shiitake, and other assorted mushrooms.

Sauteed Mushrooms

makes: 3-4 servings (as a side)

- 1 lb mixed mushrooms, wiped clean of any soil - do not wash mushrooms unless you like soggy 'shrooms!

- 5-6 cloves garlic, chopped finely

- 2-3 tbsp. olive oil

- 5 tbsp. fresh parsley or cilantro, coarsely chopped

- 1/3 cup small flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped

- Salt, to taste

- Freshly ground black pepper, to taste (I used toasted peppercorns)

Optional

- A splash of sherry, white wine, or vermouth while sauteeing

  - or -

- A squeeze of lemon at the end

1. Heat olive oil - make sure it doesn't smoke.

2. Put the chopped garlic and sautee till the garlic starts turning light brown. The idea is to let the oil absorb the garlic flavour, rather than frying the garlic to a crisp.

3. Add the mushrooms to the pan and sautee till the mushrooms start to wilt.

4. Add the sherry, white wine, or vermouth if using.

5. Continue to sautee the mushrooms until fully cooked.

6. Add the chopped parsley before serving warm or at room temperature.

PAGACH: SLOVAK CABBAGE-STUFFED BREAD

Part of the Abbecedario Culinario - Slovakia in February!

Pagach: Slovak Cabbage-stuffed Bread

makes: 2 loaves (7 inch x 10 inch)

Dough:

- 2-1/2 cups all-purpose or bread flour (not whole wheat; please get your fibre from fruits and vegetables!)

- 1-1/2 tsp. yeast

- 1 tsp. salt

- 1 tsp. sugar

- 1-1/2 to 2 cups (or more as needed) lukewarm water (not hot or the yeast will die and the dough won't rise)

1. Mix 1 cup warm water, 1 cup flour, and the yeast. Set aside for 20 min. to 1 hr. It should be frothy.
2. Add the remaining flour and mix. Add water 1/4 cup at a time and mix until the dough comes together without being sticky. If the dough is too sticky add flour 1 tbsp. at a time and incorporate into the dough until the dough stops sticking to your fingers. Knead into a smooth, pliable dough and put in a large bowl.
3. Put the bowl in a draft-free place (usually in an unheated oven or a cabinet). Allow the dough to rise for 1 hr. our until doubled in size.
4. Preheat the oven to 350 F/180C.
5. Take the bowl of dough out of its resting place and push the dough down till it deflates. Divide the dough into 4 parts.
6. Generously dust 2 baking trays with flour and using your fingers, push the dough into an approximately 1/4 in. thick rectangle. The size of the rectangle will vary depending on the amount of dough and how well you shape it, but the thickness should be no less than 1/4 in. or the bread will stick to the tray during baking because of the wet filling.
7. Spread the filling (recipe below) within 1/2 in. to 3/4 in. of the edge of the rectangle.
8. Using a second piece of dough, in the other baking tray, make another rectangle large enough to fit on top of the rectangle with filling. Press the edges to seal (since the dough is fresh there's no need to wet the edges to seal). If desired, top with caraway seeds, onion (nigella) seeds, or any other topping of choice.
9. Bake at 350 F/180 C for 20 - 30 minutes or until the bread is lightly browned and sounds hollow when tapped.
10. Remove from the oven, let it sit for 15 minutes, then cut and serve.
11. Repeat with the other 2 portions of dough.

Cabbage Filling:

- 1/2 head of a medium cabbage, cored and shredded
- 1 small yellow onion, diced
- 1/2 green or red capsicum, diced
- 1 tsp. caraway seeds
- 2-3 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
- salt and pepper to taste
- 1 tbsp. olive oil
- 1/4 cup water
- 1 tbps. crushed red pepper (optional)

1. Heat olive oil in a pan until hot but not smoking.
2. Add caraway seeds and turn heat to medium. After the caraway seeds sizzle, add the onion and capsicum and sauté until the onion starts to soften. Add cabbage, stir to mix, and allow to cook for 2-3 min.
3. Add the 1/4 cup water to the pan and stir so the vegetables don't stick to the pan. Let the cabbage cook - it will reduce in volume and you will have approximately 1-1/2 to 2 cups filling. Season with salt and pepper, and crushed red pepper if using.
4. Let the mixture cool completely before spreading it on the dough (as described above).

Notes:

1. If your yeast is old or you're not sure whether it is alive, proof it before mixing the flour to make the dough. Proofing yeast - even the regular non-Rapid Rise kind - is only done to prove that the yeast is alive before preparing a recipe. Proofing is not imperative in baking.

2. To proof 1-1/2 tsp. yeast: heat 1/2 cup water to 80 F/26 C, sprinkle yeast on the surface, let it sit for 10 minutes. If it is frothy, your yeast is alive. If the yeast does not react, it is dead and cannot be used for baking.

PIZZA - BEST DOUGH AND SAUCE EVER!

The sauce sounds strangely plain, but it's not. Try it and you'll know what I mean! I like all of the crust to have sauce so I spread it to the edge.

Pizza Dough

makes: 5 loaves, of 7 oz. each (enough for approximately 4-5 thin crust pizzas)

- 4-1/2 cups unbleached Tipo 00, bread, or unbleached all-purpose flour

- 1-2 tsp. active dry yeast

- 1/4 cup olive oil (optional, but I recommend it - it makes the dough supple and lovely)

- 1-2 tsp. salt

- 1-3/4 cups cold water (ice cold, not room temperature)

- Semolina or cornmeal for dusting the pan (I use cornmeal since I always have some)

1. If your yeast is old, it may not be alive - proof the yeast as described in the Notes below to check if it is alive.

2. Stir together the flour, salt, and yeast in a large bowl. If you are proofing the yeast, mix the flour and salt well, then lightly mix in the yeast mixture, then follow the instructions below.

3. Mix oil and water into the flour with a metal spoon or by hand.

4. Knead the dough for 5-8 minutes or until it is smooth, springy, and elastic. Don't over-knead or you'll get a chewy pizza crust later!

5. The dough should clear the sides of the bowl. If it's sticky, add flour by the tablespoon; if it's dry, add water by the tablespoon, until the flour comes together.

6. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes, knead gently for barely 30 seconds, and put in a large bowl.

7. Cover the bowl and put in a warm place (not hot) for 1 hr. or until the dough has doubled in size.

8. Deflate the dough and shape into a ball.

9. Coat the dough ball lightly with olive oil and refrigerate overnight or for up to 3 days, in a large airtight container.

10. Remove the dough from the fridge at least 1 hr. before using (room temperature dough is easier to work with, and prevents over-working the dough).

11. Preheat oven to 450 F/230 C.

12. Sprinkle semolina or cornmeal on baking trays.

13. Divide the dough according to the number of pizzas you want to make.

14. Stretch the dough with floured hands and place in the baking trays. (Rolling pizza dough will overwork the gluten in the dough and make the crust too chewy/a bit leathery.)

15. Lightly shape the stretched dough in the trays to fit as needed.

16. Top with a thin layer of sauce and add toppings of choice. (Don't over do the sauce and toppings - it's a thin crust pizza so don't weigh the crust down)

17. Use good quality toppings. Skimp on quantity not quality.

18. Bake for 7-8 minutes or until the edges are browned, cheese is melted, and toppings sizzle.

NOTES:

1. Proofing yeast - even the regular non-Rapid Rise kind - is only done to prove that the yeast is alive before preparing a recipe. Proofing is not imperative in baking if you are confident that your yeast is alive.

2. To proof 1-2 tsp. yeast: heat 1/2 cup water to 80 F/26 C, stir in 1 tsp. sugar, sprinkle yeast on the surface, let it sit for 10 minutes. If it is frothy, your yeast is alive and the whole mixture can be added to the mixed dry ingredients. If the yeast does not react, it is dead and cannot be used for baking.

Pizza Sauce

makes: 28 oz. (enough for approximately 4-5 large thin crust pizzas)

- 1 14-oz. can crushed tomatoes

- 1 14-oz. can diced tomatoes (or use all crushed tomatoes, or buy canned Marzano tomatoes and crush them yourself)

- 3-4 tbsp. olive oil

- 2-3 cloves garlic, crushed

- salt

1. Mix the tomatoes, oil, and garlic in a pan.

2. Simmer for 30 minutes.

3. Season with salt.

NOTES:

1. This is a typical sauce used for Italian pizza. Unburdened with forced flavourings. Herbs, anchovies, and other things should be added on the pizza, never in the sauce.

Topping Ideas

makes: varies

- Caramelized onions, olives, anchovies

- Crisp bacon, Gorgonzola, arugula

- Roasted sliced fennel, Italian sausage, garlic
- Pears, Fontina cheese, walnuts, grated lemon rind (under cheese or mixed in with pears)
- Burrata, tomatoes, pesto Genoese
- Feta, olives, basil
- Roasted sliced mushrooms, sauteed spinach, onions, prosciutto
- Roasted rosemary potatoes, anchovies, olives
- Roasted cauliflower, chevre, chives, truffle oil (drizzled on after baking)

Other Topping Ideas

makes: varies

- Sauces/spreads: Pestos of all kinds, tapenade, roasted garlic and olive oil.

- Cheese: buffalo milk mozzarella, burrata, asiago, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano, fresh or aged goat's/sheep's milk cheese, feta, fontina, ricotta, Romano, or whatever strikes your creative fancy!

- Vegetables: sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced zuchhini, roasted corn, thinly sliced fresh chiles - jalapenos, serranos, or chiles de arbol (the thin Indian ones), roasted potatoes or aubergines, sliced mushrooms, roasted cauliflower, artichokes, roasted fennel, capsicum, fresh or caramelized onions, kalamata (or other) olives, capers, spring onions, sauteed leeks, roasted parsnips.

- Herbs (preferably fresh but dried will do): oregano, basil, parsley, tarragon, chives, ramps.

- Meats: anchovies, shrimp, roasted poultry, cooked ground beef, proscuitto, ham, salami, pepperoni, Italian sausage, Spanish chorizo, smoked sausage.

KAAS-UIENBROOD (CHEESE-ONION BREAD)

Kaas-Uienbrood (Cheese-Onion Bread)

makes: 2 loaves, approx. 6 in. x 9 in. each

- 4-1/2 cups unbleached all purpose flour

- 2-1/4 tsp. active dry yeast

- 2 cups warm milk (I use goats milk when I have it)

- 1 tsp. salt

- 1 medium yellow or red onion

- 3-4 tbsp. chopped dried/fresh herbs (I used fresh rosemary)
- 2 tbsp. olive oil
- 2 cups grated cheese - gouda, edam, or any other aged cheese

1. If your yeast is old, it may not be alive - proof the yeast as described in the Notes below to check if it is alive.
2. Mix the flour, salt, yeast, and 1-1/2 cups milk in a bowl to make a smooth dough. If the dough is dry/crumbly, add milk and mix until the dough is supple.
3. Allow the dough to rise in a warm, draft-free place for an hour or until doubled in size. I usually cover the dough with a kitchen towel and let it rise in the oven (with the oven off, of course!), or in a kitchen cupboard.
4. While the dough is rising, peel, halve, and slice the onion, and mix in the olive oil and herbs. Also line 2 baking trays with parchment paper (not wax paper).
5. Gently push the risen dough down and shape into a ball. Let it rise in a warm draft-free place again for about 45 minutes or until it has approximately doubled in size.
6. Push the dough down lightly and divide between the baking trays. Using your fingers, form the dough into 3/4 in. thick rectangles. Top with the herbed onions and cheese and allow to rise for 20 - 30 minutes.
7. Preheat the oven to 375 F/190 C. Bake the bread on the middle rack of the oven for 20 - 25 minutes, or until the bottom looks light brown. Transfer the baking tray to the top rack to "caramelize" the cheese and onions. (I usually bake one tray at a time: while the first one is baking, I shape and top the remaining dough and let it rise while the first round bakes.)
8. Take the loaves out and allow to cool in the baking tray for 10 - 15 min. before slicing. Or cool completely and store in an airtight container.

NOTES:

1. Proofing yeast - even the regular non-Rapid Rise kind - is only done to prove that the yeast is alive before preparing a recipe. Proofing is not imperative in baking.
2. To proof 2-1/4 tsp. yeast: heat 1/2 cup water to 80 F/26 C, stir in 1 tsp. sugar, sprinkle yeast on the surface, let it sit for 10 minutes. If it is frothy, your yeast is alive. If the yeast does not react, it is dead and cannot be used for baking.

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER PINE NUT AND POMEGRANATE SALAD

Adapted from Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi. Without this book, your life has one less simple pleasure! The photos are splendid, the recipes are fantastic, and the book is quite an education on the Jewish and Muslim cuisines of Jerusalem.

Roasted Cauliflower Pine Nut and Pomegranate Salad

makes: 2-3 servings (as a side)

- 1 head cauliflower, broken into medium (2 in.) florets (1 lb or 1/2 kg total)
- 5 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 large celery stalks, cut on the bias into 1/2 in. slices

- 1 medium white or red onion, cut into 1/4 in. sliced
- 5 tbsp. pine nuts, toasted
- 1/3 cup small flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
- 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds (from about 1/2 medium pomegranate)
- generous 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
- generous 1/4 tsp. ground allspice
- 1-1/2 tbsp. balsamic or sherry vinegar
- 1-1/2 tsp maple syrup or honey
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

- a squeeze of lemon at the end

1. Preheat oven to 425 F/215 C.

2. Mix the cauliflower and sliced onions with 3 tbsp. of the olive oil, 3/4 teaspoon salt and some black pepper.

3. Spread out in a roasting pan and roast on the middle oven rack for 20 - 25 minutes, until the cauliflower is semi-crisp and parts of it have turned golden brown.

4. The onions will be done in this time, regardless of how they look. Transfer the cauliflower and onions to a large mixing bowl and set aside to cool.

5. Put the pine nuts in a cast iron or steel pan and toast until they start to turn light brown. Turn off the heat and shake them in the pan - the hot pan will continue to toast them. Remove as soon as they smell fragrant and are a slightly darker brown. The only time pine nuts are evenly brown is when they're burnt... don't wait for this to happen! 

6. After the nuts are cooled a bit, mix with the roasted vegetables and the remaining oil and the rest of the ingredients. Stir and season with salt, pepper, and a bit of lemon juice to taste.

7. Serve at room temperature.

Notes:
1. I had a sprouted white onion and the greens looked beautiful. They are edible, so I cut off the part with the greens before slicing and roasting the rest of the onion.
2. I chopped the greens like chives and added to the salad with the rest of the ingredients.