A RIFF ON ROBERTA'S PIZZA DOUGH + A SAUCE

I've been making pizza from scratch for a number of years and I've never found a dough recipe that wowed me. But I recently I came across Roberta's Pizza Dough recipe on the New York Times website and decided to give it a go based on the comments. I agree with everyone who raved about it, I love it too, and I suspect this is my new go-to dough recipe. However, I did a few things differently than the NYT recipe and loved the results so decided to write it up here in case I forget what I did. I hope you try it!

The sauce is a classic pizza sauce of crushed, reduced tomatoes and a bit of garlic. It's the way I've made sauce ever since I'd casually dabbled in cooking as a teenager, so I really couldn't tell you where I found the recipe - probably one of my mum's Italian cookbooks. But I can tell you that it is perfect in its simplicity and really lets the tomatoes come through.

Notes:

• If you haven't got 00 flour, use all-purpose
• You can use the dough after a 4 hour rise but it will be lighter and more flavourful with the longer rise. I highly recommend it!
• I let the dough rise in the stand mixer bowl but if you don't have room in the fridge, transfer to another bowl
• I use a stand mixer now but I've mixed plenty of doughs by hand, it's just fine
• Use a good quality low-moisture whole milk mozzarella (Trader Joe's has one)
• Don't overload the pizza with toppings

A RIFF ON ROBERTA'S PIZZA DOUGH + A SAUCE

makes: 2 12 in. pizzas, plenty of sauce

DOUGH

- 2 g (3/4 tsp) active dry yeast

- 200 g (~3/4 cup + 1 tbsp) warm water

- 155 g (~1 cup) 00 flour

- 155 g (~1 cup) all-purpose flour

- 8 g (1 tsp) salt

- 4 g (1 tsp) olive oil

- 200 g (~4 oz) sliced whole milk low-moisture mozzarella

- pepperoni/salami/prosciutto/other light toppings (optional) 

- fresh basil for final garnish (optional)

SAUCE

- 28 oz. tin whole peeled tomatoes (San Marzano or other good quality ones)

- 2-3 cloves peeled garlic

METHOD

1. SAUCE: blend the garlic and whole peeled tomatoes + whatever liquid is in the tin. Cook in a slow cooker on High for 3-4 hrs, or on stovetop at medium heat for 1 hr. Use right away or store in the fridge for up to 3 days, then freeze if not using.
2. DOUGH: Proof the yeast in warm water (barely warm, not hot or the yeast cells will die): add the yeast to the water and give it a quick stir, let it sit for a few minutes while you prep the flour mix.
3. Mix the flours and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook (or any large bowl if making by hand). Add the proofed yeast mixture and oil to the flour, mix at lowest speed.
4. Knead for 3 min. at medium speed, let it rest for 15 min., knead for 3-4 min. to form a smooth dough. Remove the dough ball and give it a light coating of olive oil. Put it in a bowl that fits in your fridge, cover with a towel, let it rise in a warm, draft-free place for 2 hrs. After 2 hours outside, put the dough in the fridge and let it rise for 8 - 24 hrs.
5. Remove the dough from the fridge 1-2 hrs before you want to make the pizza. At the same time, put your pizza stone or cast iron pan into the oven and preheat the oven to the highest heat.
6. After the oven has stayed at the highest temperature for 1-2 hrs, make the pizza: Divide the dough into two equal-ish parts. Shape each into a pizza, top with sauce (see recipe below), cheese, and toppings. Put the pizzas in the oven, together or one by one, set the timer for 6 min.
7. After 6 min. broil on high for 1-2 min. Remove and garnish with fresh basil leaves. Serve!

ONION AND HERB FOCACCIA

A bread by any other name... focaccia, fougasse, hogaza, schiacciata, pizza... all contain the same basic ingredients: high-gluten (strong) flour, salt, yeast/leavening, oil, water. Focaccia, the predecessor of pizza is thicker, whereas pizza is thin, almost like a flatbread. But both are great with a variety of toppings.

Focaccia is great as a snack on its own, sliced with a bit of meat, cheese, a fried egg, or vegetables inside, with soup, roasted vegetables, meats, cubed and toasted into croutons, in a breakfast strata... the ideas are endless.

The one difference between any focaccia-like bread and pizza is that focaccia has a distinct olive oil flavour thanks to the generously greased pan in which it's baked, and the drizzle of olive oil it gets before baking. Don't skimp on the quality or quantity of oil - in this recipe, I've already pared down the oil so definitely don't reduce the quantity of oil in any step otherwise you'll end up with a dry crust, bottom, and crumb - essentially a dry loaf. No fun.

 

Onion and Herb Focaccia
Makes: 1 loaf, 17 in. x 12 in.

Dough:
- 2-1/2 cups whole wheat flour 
- 2-1/2 cups bread flour
- 2-1/2 tsp. active dry yeast (not Rapid Rise)
- 1 tbsp. salt
- 1 tbsp. lemon juice
- 2 tbsp. olive oil, plus more for greasing the baking tray
- 2 cups warm water (not hot - or the yeast will die and the dough won't rise!)

Topping:
- 1 tbsp. fennel seeds
- 1-1/2 tbsp. rosemary leaves, fresh or dried
- 1 tbsp. thyme, fresh or dried
- 1 tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes
- 1 tsp. black pepper, freshly ground
- 3 tbsp. olive oil
- 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 jalapeño, thinly sliced
- 1 tbsp. flaked or coarse salt

1. In a large bowl, make the yeast sponge: mix 1 cup warm water, 1 cup whole wheat flour, and yeast. Set aside for 15 minutes - after 15 minutes the mixture should look frothy and feel "spongy" when stirred with a spoon.
2. In a small bowl, mix the fennel seeds, rosemary, thyme, crushed red pepper, black pepper, and the 3 tbsp. olive oil. Set aside.
3. To the yeast sponge, add the rest of the whole wheat flour, bread flour, 2 tbsp. olive oil, lemon juice, and salt. Mix well - the dough will be dry and clumpy. Add 1/2 cup warm water and mix into a dough. If needed, add more warm water, 1/4 cup at a time, to bind the dough into a ball. Knead till smooth and supple, about 5 minutes. The dough should be soft but not wet and sticky. If it is, add flour 1 tbsp. at a time until the dough is soft but not wet or sticky.
4. Form the dough into a ball and put into a large bowl. Cover the bowl and put it in a warm, draft-free place until the dough has risen and doubled in size, at least 1 hour.
5. Generously grease a 17 in. x 12 in. rectangular jelly roll pan / metal baking tray with olive oil.
6. Gently push down the risen dough. Transfer to the greased pan and using your fingers, flatten the dough to fill the pan. The dough may spring back - let it rest for a minute and continue to flatten into an even layer.
7. Let the dough rise in the baking tray for 20 - 30 minutes.
8. Make sure there's a middle and lower rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 425 F / 220 C. Fill an oven-proof tray with 1 - 2 in. water.
9. Using your finger tips, make "dimples" all over the dough.
10. Brush on the olive oil and herb mixture all over the dough. Gently press the sliced onion and jalapeño on to the dough. Evenly sprinkle the salt, if using, on the dough.
11. Put the pan (with the dough) on the middle rack, and the tray with water on the lower rack.
12. Turn the temperature down to 400 F / 200 C and bake for 25 - 30 minutes until the focaccia is golden at the top and bottom (use a spatula to lift a corner and check).
13. Remove from the oven and cool for 3-5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store leftovers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day or in the fridge for up to 2 days.

PIZZA - BEST DOUGH AND SAUCE EVER!

The sauce sounds strangely plain, but it's not. Try it and you'll know what I mean! I like all of the crust to have sauce so I spread it to the edge.

Pizza Dough

makes: 5 loaves, of 7 oz. each (enough for approximately 4-5 thin crust pizzas)

- 4-1/2 cups unbleached Tipo 00, bread, or unbleached all-purpose flour

- 1-2 tsp. active dry yeast

- 1/4 cup olive oil (optional, but I recommend it - it makes the dough supple and lovely)

- 1-2 tsp. salt

- 1-3/4 cups cold water (ice cold, not room temperature)

- Semolina or cornmeal for dusting the pan (I use cornmeal since I always have some)

1. If your yeast is old, it may not be alive - proof the yeast as described in the Notes below to check if it is alive.

2. Stir together the flour, salt, and yeast in a large bowl. If you are proofing the yeast, mix the flour and salt well, then lightly mix in the yeast mixture, then follow the instructions below.

3. Mix oil and water into the flour with a metal spoon or by hand.

4. Knead the dough for 5-8 minutes or until it is smooth, springy, and elastic. Don't over-knead or you'll get a chewy pizza crust later!

5. The dough should clear the sides of the bowl. If it's sticky, add flour by the tablespoon; if it's dry, add water by the tablespoon, until the flour comes together.

6. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes, knead gently for barely 30 seconds, and put in a large bowl.

7. Cover the bowl and put in a warm place (not hot) for 1 hr. or until the dough has doubled in size.

8. Deflate the dough and shape into a ball.

9. Coat the dough ball lightly with olive oil and refrigerate overnight or for up to 3 days, in a large airtight container.

10. Remove the dough from the fridge at least 1 hr. before using (room temperature dough is easier to work with, and prevents over-working the dough).

11. Preheat oven to 450 F/230 C.

12. Sprinkle semolina or cornmeal on baking trays.

13. Divide the dough according to the number of pizzas you want to make.

14. Stretch the dough with floured hands and place in the baking trays. (Rolling pizza dough will overwork the gluten in the dough and make the crust too chewy/a bit leathery.)

15. Lightly shape the stretched dough in the trays to fit as needed.

16. Top with a thin layer of sauce and add toppings of choice. (Don't over do the sauce and toppings - it's a thin crust pizza so don't weigh the crust down)

17. Use good quality toppings. Skimp on quantity not quality.

18. Bake for 7-8 minutes or until the edges are browned, cheese is melted, and toppings sizzle.

NOTES:

1. Proofing yeast - even the regular non-Rapid Rise kind - is only done to prove that the yeast is alive before preparing a recipe. Proofing is not imperative in baking if you are confident that your yeast is alive.

2. To proof 1-2 tsp. yeast: heat 1/2 cup water to 80 F/26 C, stir in 1 tsp. sugar, sprinkle yeast on the surface, let it sit for 10 minutes. If it is frothy, your yeast is alive and the whole mixture can be added to the mixed dry ingredients. If the yeast does not react, it is dead and cannot be used for baking.

Pizza Sauce

makes: 28 oz. (enough for approximately 4-5 large thin crust pizzas)

- 1 14-oz. can crushed tomatoes

- 1 14-oz. can diced tomatoes (or use all crushed tomatoes, or buy canned Marzano tomatoes and crush them yourself)

- 3-4 tbsp. olive oil

- 2-3 cloves garlic, crushed

- salt

1. Mix the tomatoes, oil, and garlic in a pan.

2. Simmer for 30 minutes.

3. Season with salt.

NOTES:

1. This is a typical sauce used for Italian pizza. Unburdened with forced flavourings. Herbs, anchovies, and other things should be added on the pizza, never in the sauce.

Topping Ideas

makes: varies

- Caramelized onions, olives, anchovies

- Crisp bacon, Gorgonzola, arugula

- Roasted sliced fennel, Italian sausage, garlic
- Pears, Fontina cheese, walnuts, grated lemon rind (under cheese or mixed in with pears)
- Burrata, tomatoes, pesto Genoese
- Feta, olives, basil
- Roasted sliced mushrooms, sauteed spinach, onions, prosciutto
- Roasted rosemary potatoes, anchovies, olives
- Roasted cauliflower, chevre, chives, truffle oil (drizzled on after baking)

Other Topping Ideas

makes: varies

- Sauces/spreads: Pestos of all kinds, tapenade, roasted garlic and olive oil.

- Cheese: buffalo milk mozzarella, burrata, asiago, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano, fresh or aged goat's/sheep's milk cheese, feta, fontina, ricotta, Romano, or whatever strikes your creative fancy!

- Vegetables: sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced zuchhini, roasted corn, thinly sliced fresh chiles - jalapenos, serranos, or chiles de arbol (the thin Indian ones), roasted potatoes or aubergines, sliced mushrooms, roasted cauliflower, artichokes, roasted fennel, capsicum, fresh or caramelized onions, kalamata (or other) olives, capers, spring onions, sauteed leeks, roasted parsnips.

- Herbs (preferably fresh but dried will do): oregano, basil, parsley, tarragon, chives, ramps.

- Meats: anchovies, shrimp, roasted poultry, cooked ground beef, proscuitto, ham, salami, pepperoni, Italian sausage, Spanish chorizo, smoked sausage.