PINEAU D'AUNIS AND OVALIE CENDRÉE: AN EXQUISITE PAIR!

  

This month the #Winophiles dove into the Forgotten Grapes of France, a charge led by Lynn Gowdy of Savor the Harvest. She very helpfully compiled a list of grapes that are on the decline in France. So I dove into our "cellar" (large wine fridges) to see what might emerge. I settled on a Pineau d'Aunis, an absolutely favourite grape that I don't see often in the US, or outside its home of the Loire Valley, even in France. Schedules won't permit our usual virtual chat, but we will all have a post so stop by and see what everyone is talking about.The list of (and links to) all of us who've written about the many Forgotten Grapes of France is at the end of this post so do scroll over to browse each article and see which forgotten grape you'd like to try.

PINEAU D'AUNIS

Its delicate pepperiness and fragrant red berry notes made Pineau d'Aunis wine immensely popular with royalty and nobility, particularly the English. But despite the covetability, wine produced from this grape has declined over the years. There are several reasons why the grape might have fallen out of favour in viticulture. It can produce irregular yields, but excessive yields negatively impact wine quality. It is also quite sensitive to climate and terroir - in wet climates the small, compact bunches of Pineau grapes are susceptible to botrytis bunch rot, and the vine is susceptible to chlorosis (inhibition of chlorophyll production and therefore photosynthesis, caused by a lack of micronutrients in the soil, and quite common in all plants including house plants). In chalky, limestone-rich soil it usually ripens fast, which arrests development of complex flavours resulting in a flabby wine. On the other hand, clayey soil that holds water quite well - perhaps too well for grape vines - can impede ripening which would result in a flat wine if drinkable at all. In summary, Pineau d'Aunis is a finicky grape.

But still, it is made into still, sparkling, red, white, and rosé wines. I have seen quite a few Pineau d'Aunis rosés here in the US. They are fine, but I much prefer Pineau made into still red wine redolent with notes of strawberry, raspberry, white pepper, and cherry, with a bright acid edge, and delicate red colour over its other styles.

2020 DOMAINE GIGOU PINEAU D'AUNIS + OVALIE CENDRÉE

Domaine Gigou was established by the family patriarch Joël ~1974 in the area around the Coteaux-du-Loir and Jasnieres appellations. He saw potential in the area and pivoted from metalworking to grape vines and wine. His son and daughter joined him eventually in 1998 and 2012, and they are carrying forward his legacy, making organic red, white, and sparkling wines, all estate grown and bottled. Coteaux-du-Loir is a small appellation of all of 70 hectares where the family has its estate. It is a small but mighty appellation putting forth some of the most exquisite and quaffable wines that pair with a variety of foods.

At Domaine Gigou they use indigenous yeasts and age the wine in oak barrels before bottling. It is a small and truly family run operation as evidenced by their website which provides basic but essential information. It is an estate worth visiting if you are in the Chartre-Sur-Loir area. 

At 12.5% ABV, and being so food-friendly, this wine is an excellent choice for an aperitif, dinner, or with a variety of cheeses. We did just that when we had our neighbours over for a long lingering dinner one evening. Just out of the bottle the wine...

Looks: clear, light ruby red

Nose: white pepper, strawberry, raspberry, and a faint hint of fruit compôte

Palate: Echos the nose, and also has an earthy note, soft tannins, and luscious acidity. A light bodied but refreshing and juicy wine with a medium+ finish.

Pairing: We had it with a button of Ovalie Cendrée, a superb ashed goats cheese from the Loire Valley.

The Ovalie Cendrée, a goat's cheese masterpiece from the genius affineur Hervé Mons, is coated in charcoal ash which helps de-acidify the cheese (neutralise the natural acidity of goat's milk), which in turn helps yeasts and moulds develop a bloomy rind on the surface. A co-op in Poitou-Charentes makes the cheese and when it is ~10 days old they send it to Hervé Mons who ripen it for 10 more days before sending to the US and on the way here it continues to ripen/age.

The gorgeous grey and white rind hides a delicious cream line and a lush firm inner core. The cheese is creamy, tangy, mushroom-y, and earthy. All flavours that work in immense harmony with the soft tannins, juiciness, and earthiness of the wine. I don't usually like to have bread with cheese and wine but rather, on its own as a palate refresher after a few bites. I did that with this cheese too, and didn't find the cheese too intense to eat on its own. If you're trying the Ovalie Cendrée with a Pineau red, I recommend that approach of no bread until after.

See below which Forgotten Grapes of France the other writers enjoyed.

• Martin from Enofylz Wine Blog shares “Forgotten Grapes of France: Poulsard Shines in the 2022 Domaine Dugois ‘La Sombarde“
• Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm shares “A Sauvignon Gris from Bordeaux paired with a Chicken Stew from Zambia“
• Robin from Crushed Grape Chronicles shares “Rosé d’Anjou with Groulleau and a budget-friendly variation on Crab Mac & Cheese!“
• Camilla from Culinary Cam shares “A Pair of Picpoul – From Two Continents – with a Simple Salmon Dinner“
• David from Cooking Chat shares “French Alpine Wines and Pairings to Go With Them“
• Gwendolyn from Wine Predator shares “Beat the Wintry Blues: Meet Sciaccarellu, Niellucciu, Carcaghjolu Neru, and Minustellu from Corsica!“
• Cathie from Side Hustle Wino shares “Channeling Warm Weather Through Forgotten Grapes of France“
• Linda from My Full Wine Glass shares “Jurancon Noir: A very berry grape from southwest France“
• My notes on this pairing are here on Keep the Peas where I talk about “Pineau d'Aunis and Ovalie Cendrée: An Exquisite Pair!"
• Terri from Our Good Life shares “Rediscovering the Gems: Exploring the Forgotten Grapes of French Wine“
• Jeff from Food Wine Click! shares “Forgotten Grapes of France: Fer Servadou from Aveyron“
• Lynn from Savor the Harvest shares “Forgotten Wine Grapes of France – Alpine Wines of Savoie“

A BANDOL RED AND LAMB BIRYANI

Image: Domaine de la Bégude

In February 2021 the French Winophiles, aka #winophiles on social media, are exlporing red wines of Provence. Find out more when the #winophiles tackle all things Provence red wine on Twitter on 20 February 2021 at 8 AM PST.

As I'd mentioned in my preview post, when we hear wine and Provence in the same sentence we almost always - and rightfully so - think of rosé wines of all shades made from grapes growing in impossibly sunny and clement weather in southern France. But in fact Provence offers more than delicately coloured rosé wines and visions of lavender fields near the Mediterranean sea. Formidable red wines come out of Provence just as well as rosé and white wines. Made from from a variety of grapes... something for everyone and for all kinds of pairings. 

Provence has 9 viticultural regions or AOCs (Appellation de’Origin Contrôlée). Among those, the ones known for red wine are Bandol (arguably the most famous Provençal red wine AOC), Baux de Provence, Palette, Bellett, and the newest AOC (since 1998), Pierrevert. Red wine grapes here include varieties found throughout much of France such as Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Tannat, Counoise, Cinsault, and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also grapes not often seen elsewhere like Folle Noir, Calitour, Tibouren, Barbaroux, and Braquet. All in all about 36 grape varieties are allowed in Provence spanning a few different countries including Spain and Italy, although in Provence they are generally known by their French/Provençal names.

DOMAINE DE LA BÉGUDE

Located 400 m above and overlooking the Mediterranean, this winery spans 1300 acres of land including 57 acres of vineyards. The property enjoys both, Mistral-brushed sunny days and cool nights. Outstanding complex and elegant wines come from the outstanding garrigue-laden mosaic of soils combined with the 7 generations old winemaking pedigree of Guillaume Tari. Although we selected a red, La Bégude makes rosé, white, and red wines, all certified organic by ECOCERT.

2018 Domaine de la Bégude Bandol Rouge

90% Mourvedre, 10% Cinsault

14.5% ABV | SRP $35

Colour: 

Deep ruby, almost looks over-extracted

Nose: 

Dark berries right up front, anise, baking spices, herbal notes mixed with earth, a faint hint of dried red roses. Quite lovely and definitely does not smell over-extracted.

Palate: 

This is a very elegant savoury wine with surprising complexity given its young age. The same notes on the palate as on the nose, but with an unexpected savouriness despite the overt berry-laden nose. Medium body, balanced acidity, grippy tannins that loosen up after ~1 hr. A beautifully structured wine that will undoubtedly benefit from 5-7 years in the cellar.

THE WINE + FOOD

We opened this wine to pair with a lamb chop biryani. Lamb is somewhat of a guaranteed match for most southern French red wines but the surprise was in how synchronised the dark berries, anise, garrigue, and the faint dried rose floral notes in the wine were with the complex aromatics and Kashmiri saffron in the biryani. The fragrance of aged Indian basmati rice was an added layer of elegance in this entire combination. 

I would not recommend this restrained complex wine with spicy food (like fiery South Indian style biryanis) but it is a match made in heaven for the layered complex flavours of North Indian biryanis or Persian food (the birthplace of biryani).

In India we never make things like tandoori anything, naan, or biryani at home because it is a bit of a chore, the flavour is never as good,  and tandoors are usually communal ovens not home cooking equipment. Nevertheless, I'm glad it was the dish of choice for my procrasticooking in the face of a project deadline. I needed a break from work and my post-work trip quarantine so this came at the right time.

Check out these blog posts and be inspired by what the rest of us sipped and savoured:

• Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla presents Provençal Pork Stew + Clos Cibonne Cuvee Speciale Rouge 2019 #Winophiles
• Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm shares Beef Daube Provencal with a Bandol Rouge
• Payal at Keep the Peas serves A Bandol Red and Lamb Biryani
• Jane of Always Ravenous showcases Provencal Braised Beef with Bandol Rouge
• Lynn over at Savor the Harvest offers Winning Red Wines from Provence with Lamb Meatballs: Domaine Hauvette and Clos Cibonne
• Susannah from Avvinare tells us how Beef Stew and A Glass of Bandol Rouge Warms the Heart
• Jeff of Food Wine Click! shares Provençal Memories and Mas de Gourgonnier Rouge
• Gwendolyn from Wine Predator posts The Magique of Provence
• Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles writes Bandol Rouge – An Elegant and Wild Provençe Red Wine from Château Ste. Anne
• Cathie of Side Hustle Wino offers Off the Beaten Path in Provence
• Melanie of Wining with Mel writes Rosés are Red? Love for Provence’s Big Red Wines and Château Calissanne

CAHORS: WHAT PUT MALBEC ON THE MAP

This month the French #winophiles are in Cahors AOC, southwestern France. Nicole of Somm's Table is graciously hosting, and we can thank Jill of L'occasion for scoring us Cahors wine samples through the UIVC (Union Interprofessionnelle des Vins de Cahors) for a few of us. But even without samples, everyone is welcome to join us as we jaunt through Cahors and enjoy the wine!

Malbec - aka Côt, Côt Noir, Auxxerois, Pressac, and hundreds of other regional names - is native to France, especially the southwest in the Lot department where it was introduced by the Romans around 50 BC and has been cultivated since then despite a few setbacks  like phylloxera and frost along the way. Incidentally, while the Romans were introducing grapes in southwestern France, they were also capturing Gaulish villages in the area and Romanising them. One village in particular managed to defend itself and remained Gaulish despite being surrounded by Romans and other captured villages. Asterix, the hugely popular French comic series about the resistance of a Gaulish village against Roman occupation, is set in that very village! The village chief Vitalstatistix in those comics is based on Lucterius, a formidable leader of the Gauls who was instrumental in defending the village from the Romans. If you haven't read any Asterix, begin with Asterix the Gaul!

As a grape Malbec is a bit finicky, like Pinot Noir. It is thick-skinned but sensitive to humidity, frost, temperature, and other weather conditions which make it prone to  diseases like downy mildew and "coulure", or lack of full development of grapes. Malbec grapes make deep, inky, intense wine, making it popular as a blending grape for colour and fruit, especially in the Loire, Bordeaux, and elsewhere where Bordeaux-style blends are made. These qualities have also earned it the nickname "black wine" although of course it is not actually black. At one point Malbec was grown in up to 30 departments around France but these days it primarily grows in the small town of Cahors which is the capital of the Lot department and a small town on the river Lot that flows towards Bordeaux. Cahors is a red wine-only AOC, with a minimum of 70% Malbec required in each blend. Grapes commonly used to blend with Malbec are Merlot and Tannat.

In the mid-19th century at the instruction of provincial governor Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, Malbec was planted in Argentina by French agronomist Miguel Pouget. A lot has happened between then and now in the Argentine wine world but it ultimately led to Malbec being the most widely planted red grape in Argentina, which is nearly synonymous with Malbec around the world. And, as I'd mentioned above, Malbec is a fussy grape and hectares of it succumbed to frost and phylloxera around the time it was fledgling in Argentina. Thanks to that serendipitous planting, despite the natural devastation in France, Malbec survived, thrived, and became a fixture on the world wine map, albeit through Argentina via Cahors!

All that aside, Argentine and French Malbec are vastly different wines. The grapes themselves are same but different... tighter clusters and smaller berries in Argentina, e.g. And taste... Argentine Malbec is jammy, fruit forward, with some floral notes, soft tannins and a velvety texture, whereas French Malbec is leathery, with flavors of tart currant, black plum, firm tannins, higher acid, and a savoury meatiness on the palate. The higher tannins and acid in French Malbec yields lower alcohol, age-worthy wines compared to Argentine Malbec.

THE WINE

The Cahors Malbec wines I received were:

• Château du Cèdre Extra Libre 2018
• Château de Gaudou Le Sang de Ma Terre 2018
• Château Lamartine Cahors "Cuvée Particulière" 2016

The one I opened for this review was the Château du Cèdre Extra Libre (2018) because it has no added sulphites and we couldn't wait to try it! I will review the other wines at a later date.

Château du Cèdre Extra Libre, 2018 | SRP n/a

95% Malbec, 5% Merlot

https://www.chateauducedre.com/

Ch. du Cèdre was started by Charles Léon Verhaeghe, a Flemish immigrant who settled in the Lot department. Truly a family owned and run winery, they are now on their third generation of family members running the show.

The grapes for this wine come from vines on the lower terraces with sandy alluvial soil, and from the upper terrace with limestone soil. The grapes are sorted and destemmed in the vineyard, at the winery they're macerated for 30 days and fermented in concrete tanks before being aged in nearly neutral (twice used) oak barrels.

The wine is beautiful in the glass with a gorgeous magenta rim and deep core. On the nose: aromas of ripe red berries, fresh red roses, and cinnamon. On the palate: juicy, same as nose + black pepper, a hint of nutmeg, and a faint minerality, all with mouthwatering acidity and a medium finish. This is a highly quaffable wine with or without food, and quite different from any Cahors Malbec we've had. It is, however, a must to serve it cool, not at room temperature, to get the best of it.

THE FOOD

I paired the wine with wild scallop theeyal, a dish from Kerala, India, a coastal state known for its abundant seafood, extensive use of coconut, curry leaves, and fragrant rice varieties. Although scallops are found in every ocean of the planet, they are not commonly found on Indian menus even though India, as a peninsular country, has an extensive coastline. Maybe they are not abundant off the Indian coast, or, like oysters, might be considered "fisherman's food" in India. Like most food from the Indian subcontinent, theeyals are very flavourful but not fiery, and have a distinct deep red colour because of the deeply roasted coconut used in the sauce (clearly, I did not roast the coconut enough, because my sauce was hardly deep red!). In addition to all the spices, the sauce has a pleasant tangy acidity in the background that can come from either tamarind or kudampuli (Garcinia Cambogia), a pumpkin-shaped sour fruit whose dried and reconstituted peels are used extensively in Sri Lankan and Keralan cuisine.

Kudampuli, what I used rather than tamarind, lends a discernible but complementary acidity to the sauce, and actually brings forward the fruitiness of the wine. All the flavours - the roasted coconut, sweetness of the fresh scallops, and the bright and fruity wine - were so delicious that we'll be having more of this!

We'll be talking Cahors on Twitter this Saturday, 19 October at 8 AM PST so join us and be sure to use #Winophiles in your tweets so that we can see your comments. If you can't make it, no worries, you can stop by whenever to see what the other friendly Winophiles have done with Cahors this month while we slowly but sure move into colder weather here in the northern hemisphere:

• Jane from Always Ravenous explores the “Flavors of Fall Paired with Cahors Malbec”
• Cathie of Side Hustle Wino looks at “Cahors – TheBirthplace of Malbec”
• Jill from L’Occasion shares “Cahors, a French Classic”
• Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla will be posting “Château du Cèdre Extra Libre 2018 Malbec + Cider-Braised Chicken Thighs” 
• Wendy Klik of A Day in the Life on the Farm samples “A Trio of Cahors Wine and the Pairings Served” 
• Jeff of FoodWineClick! gives us “The Malbec You Never Knew: Cahors”
• Linda of My Full Wine Glass shares “Newbies to Old-World Malbec Discover Cahors”
• Cindy of Grape Experiences explores “The Old-World Style of Malbec from Cahors”
• Deanna of Asian Test Kitchen gives us “French Malbecs Meet Chinese Duck”
• Gwen from Wine Predator shares “From Cahors: Biodynamic Chateau du Cedre Malbec with French Charcuterie”
• Pinny of Chinese Food & Wine Pairings matches “Cahor Malbecs and Waygu Beef”
• Cynthia and Pierre of Traveling Wine Profs give us “Cahors, Hainan Chicken Rice, and the Stories Wine Books Tell”
• Susannah of Avvinare will be “Shedding Light on Old World Malbec from Cahors”
• Payal of Keep the Peas discusses “Cahors: What Put Malbec on the Map”
• Rupal of Syrah Queen will posting “Cahors – Tasting “Black Wines” With The Original Malbec”
• David of Cooking Chat pairs “Mushroom Truffle Risotto with Cahors Malbec”
• Nicole of Somm’s Table shares “Bringing Home Cahors with Clos D’Audhuy”

GOUGÈRES: CHEESE PUFFS

Gougères are light and delicious cheese puffs made with pâte à choux, the same pastry dough that's used for profiteroles, eclairs, etc. It's a quick and fairly easy dough to make, somewhat fool-proof since it relies on aerating rather than a rising agent like baking powder or yeast.

Typically, gougères are made with Comté or Gruyère cheese, but really any cheese that melts will be fine if you don't specifically want the flavours of Comté or Gruyère cheese. This time, since I was pairing them with a slew of southern Rhône wines, I used a mix of Comté and Füürtüfel - a terrific spicy Swiss cheese.

GOUGÈRES: CHEESE PUFFS

makes: ~20 medium gougères

- Equipment: hand mixer with two beaters

- 1 cup milk

- 1 cup all-purpose flour

- 3 large eggs

- 4 tablespoons butter

- 1/4 teaspoon salt

- 1-1/2 cups grated Comté, Gruyère or other Swiss cheese

- 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper (optional)

Optional: Fleur de sel to sprinkle on top before baking

1. Bring the milk, butter and salt (and cayenne, if using) to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from the heat, add the flour all at once, and mix vigorously with a wooden spatula until the mixture forms a ball, taking care to scrape up all the flour/dough from the base and sides of the pan. Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook for about 1 minute to dry the mixture a bit. Stir to make sure the dough doesn't stick to the pan. Remove from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes.
2. Add the eggs and use the hand mixer to mix thoroughly and aerate for 4-5 minutes. Let the choux pastry dough cool for 7-10 minutes.
3. Preheat the oven to 400 °F/200 °C. Line 1 large or 2 medium baking trays with parchment paper.
4. Add the grated cheese to the dough and stir just enough to incorporate. Use 2 spoons - 1 to scoop the gougère dough and 1 to help drop it on to the baking sheet - to place the dough on the baking tray, spaced ~2 inches apart. Sprinkle a few grains of the coarse salt, if using, on each gougère.
5. Bake for about 30 minutes, until browned. Do *not* open the oven while the gougéres are baking or they might: not puff up, deflate after cooling, remain dense!
6. Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes. Serve lukewarm or at room temperature with wine - including champagne - or any other beverage.