BASIL MAYONNAISE

This basil mayonnaise is a gorgeous green and tastes superb! So summery and full of the bright basil flavour that enhances any summer vegetable, especially when simply prepared by steaming. Pair with a light crisp rosé and some fresh bread for an easy meal.

Although mayonnaise can be made in a food processor, whisking by hand gives you more control over it and will help prevent it from breaking. It will also build excellent arm strength! 

Basil Mayonnaise

makes: approximately 1 cup

- 2 egg yolks

- 1 tsp salt

- juice of 1 lemon

- 1 cup neutral oil (rice bran, safflower, sunflower, or any other neutral oil - not olive oil)

- 1/2 cup packed basil leaves

- 1/2 cup packed parsley leaves

1. Make the basil oil: Put the parsley and basil leaves into a blender jar (not a food processor) and pour 3/4 cups of the oil over the leaves. Blend until smooth. Strain the oil into a bowl using a fine-mesh strainer or a chinois, pressing the solids down to get all the oil out.
2. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, lemon juice, and salt until pale yellow and slightly thickened. Start adding the basil oil in a thin stream, whisking continuously until the mixture starts to thicken and fluffs up. If it gets too thick and hard to whisk before most of the oil is used up, add 1 tbsp. lemon juice and carry on whisking while adding oil. Whisk until the oil is incorporated into the mix and you have a fluffy mayonnaise. Over-whisking will break the mayo! If that happens, you'll have to either start over or salvage it using another egg yolk, a clean bowl, and a lot more whisking while gradually adding the broken mayo! Try to avoid breaking the mayo :-)
3. Enjoy immediately with steamed or roasted vegetables or seafood, or in any way you wish. Refrigerate leftovers for a few weeks.

PEPPERY ROSE COCKTAIL

A pretty cocktail - rosebud-infused vodka, red grapefruit juice, bay laurel and peppercorn simple syrup, and muddled fresh peppermint and pink peppercorns - perfect for summer afternoons and evenings!

The rose vodka adds a delicate floral top note just before you take a sip of this pink peppercorn- and mint-laced concoction. And the peppercorn and bay laurel simple syrup nicely rounds out the grapefruit.

Peppery Rose Cocktail

makes: 4 servings

- 1 cup vodka

- 1/3 cup dried rosebuds (or rose petals)

- 1 cup grapefruit juice

- 4 tsp. pink peppercorns

- 4 sprigs peppermint (or any other mint)

- 1 cup water

- 1 cup sugar

- 2 bay laurel leaves

- 3 tbsp. peppercorns, coarsely crushed

- 1 cup San Pellegrino (or any other carbonated water / club soda)

- ice for serving the cocktail

- lidded jar or cocktail shaker, 1 oz. jigger

1. In a small bottle mix the vodka and rosebuds and let it steep for at least 8 hours. Strain before using.
2. On medium-high, heat the sugar, water, bay laurel and crushed peppercorns in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 15 min. Turn the heat off and let the bay laurel and peppercorns steep in the syrup at least until it cools completely. Strain the syrup and discard the peppercorns and bay laurel leaves. This is more simple syrup than you need for the cocktails but it stores well in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.
3. To make one cocktail: 
• add 1 tsp. pink peppercorns and leaves from 1 sprig of mint to the cocktail shaker and muddle until fragrant
• add 2 oz. vodka, 2 oz. grapefruit juice, 1 oz. simple syrup, and shake well
• add more simple syrup to taste
• pour over ice and top up with San Pellegrino
• garnish with a mint leaf
4. Salud!

SWEET POTATO RISOTTO, MINT + WALNUT GREMOLATA

Sweet potato risotto is a terrific seasonal variation on risotto. The sweet flavour and creamy texture of the sweet potato complements the risotto really well. Walnuts and sweet potatoes are in season in the autumn - and they pair exceptionally well in this savoury risotto-gremolata combo. A sure favourite!

Risotto is prepared with any Italian starchy, short-grained rice - the most common rice varieties used for risotto are carnaroli or arborio. To properly cook risotto you stir hot broth into the uncooked rice a ladleful at a time and cook slowly. As the liquid is nearly absorbed, add in the next ladleful. This slow cooking and stirring releases the natural starches in the rice and makes the risotto creamy, velvety and irresistible... well, that and the cheese!!

Risotto is best served immediately or soon after cooking because it will become clumpy if made in advance. A properly cooked risotto makes a soft, creamy mound without running across the plate. It also should not be too hard, crunchy, or gummy.

Gremolata is an Italian condiment of chopped fresh herbs, lemon zest, garlic, and a bit of olive oil. In the spirit of other similar condiments like pistou, persillade, any kind of pesto, Indian chutneys, etc. it's simple but packs a punch of brilliant fresh flavour! Ossobucco with gremolata and risotto is a classic Milanese meal! Here I've made it seasonal and vegetarian - I usually serve this risotto with roasted cauliflower or roasted chicken with kale (photo below).

Sweet Potato Risotto, Mint + Walnut Gremolata

makes: 4-5 cups (a typical serving of risotto is 1 cup)

- 2 cups peeled and diced sweet potato 

- 2 cups carnaroli or arborio rice

- 5-6 cups vegetable or chicken broth

- 1-1/2 cups dry white wine (like a Pinot Grigio)

- 2 cloves garlic, minced

- 1 small white or yellow onion, diced

- 1 tbsp. butter

- 2 Tbsp olive oil

- 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

- 1 tbsp. freshly ground pepper

- 2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

- salt, to taste

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pan. When it's hot, add the onion and garlic and sauté on low heat for 1-2 minutes so the onion doesn't brown. Add the sweet potatoes and red pepper flakes and continue to sauté.
2. Heat the broth in a saucepan, and adjust the heat so it remains at a simmer.
3. When the onion is translucent, add the rice and sauté for 3-4 minutes, stirring frequently so that the rice doesn't brown or stick to the pan.
4. Once the rice is coated with oil, add the wine and cook for a few minutes, stirring frequently, until the wine is absorbed.
5. Add 1 cup of the hot broth to the rice and stir until it is absorbed. Stir constantly so that the rice doesn't scorch or stick to the pan. Add the next cup of broth as soon as the rice has absorbed the broth but don't wait till the rice is dry - you should see a sheen of liquid in the rice.
6. Continue adding broth by the cup and stir while the liquid is absorbed, then add more broth when the rice is almost dry. The rice will start getting a creamy consistency as its starch is released. Cook the rice this way until until the rice is tender but still firm to the bite - without being crunchy or tasting raw. If you run out of broth before the risotto is done, use hot water to finish cooking, stirring while it's absorbed.
7. Stir in the pepper, butter, and cheese, and season to taste with salt. Serve garnished with a tbsp. of gremolata (recipe below) and a grind of black pepper.

Mint + Walnut Gremolata

makes: approximately 1/2 cup

- 2 tbsp. lemon zest (zest from one lemon) 

- 2 cloves garlic, crushed into a paste

- 1/4 cup finely chopped walnuts

- 1/2 packed cup mint

- 1/2 packed cup parsley

- 1/4 cup olive oil

1. Finely chop the parsley and mint.
2. In a bowl, mix the chopped parsley, mint, and all the other ingredients. Refrigerate until ready to use.

CILANTRO, BRAZIL NUT, AND SEED PESTO

Cilantro is known as a heavy metal chelator and can purportedly help remove lead, mercury, and other toxins from the body. However, I'm not a medical practitioner of any kind so I recommend enjoying this pesto for its delicious flavour and gorgeous colour!

For years I've been making this pesto from this website, and I barely make any changes to the recipe other than adding mint and sometimes using olive oil instead of flaxseed oil.

Cilantro, Brazil Nut, and Seed Pesto

makes: about 2 cups

- 1/3 cup Brazil nuts (selenium)

- 1/3 cup sunflower seeds (cysteine)

- 1/3 cup pumpkin seeds (zinc, magnesium)

- 4 cloves garlic, peeled

- 2 cups packed fresh cilantro (vitamin A)

- 1/2 cup fresh mint

- 2/3 cup flaxseed oil

- 2 lemons, juiced

- 2 tsp dulse flakes

- 1 tsp sea salt, or to taste

- 1 tsp. coarsely ground black pepper (optional)

1. Put the nuts and seeds, garlic, lemon juice, dulse, flaxseed oil, mint, cilantro, salt, and pepper, if using, (in that order) in a blender or food processor and process to a desired consistency.
2. Taste and add more salt if needed. Store in the fridge in dark glass jars if possible. It freezes very well, so make more when cilantro is in season and freeze it.
3. Enjoy this as you would any pesto.

ZUCCHINI AND HERB SOUP

I really love the colour of this soup! And the very refreshing herbal flavours with the creamy  texture of blended zucchini make it perfect for spring and summer when you want a light energizing meal. Plus it's very easy to make. There's not much more to say, really.

I find greens and vegetables very satiating and filling, but sometimes when I just want a more substantial meal, this soup is superb with this incredible cucumber tomato cheese sandwich. It would also go very well with focaccia, Dutch onion and cheese bread, or any other kind of bread, a smoked salmon/trout sandwich, roasted potatoes, a pasta salad, casserole... anything other than fruits.

Zucchini and Herb Soup
Makes: 4-6 servings

- 1 lb. zucchini, cut into chunks
- 1 small yellow onion, sliced
- 3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
- 1-1/2 cups arugula (or baby spinach or watercress)
- 1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley, including tender stalks
- 1/8 cup loosely packed whole fresh mint leaves (or cilantro)
- 1 in. piece of ginger (no need to peel if it's organic)
- 1 tbsp. coconut oil (cold-pressed, or use extra virgin olive oil)
- 1 tbsp. salt
- 1 tbsp. pepper
- 3 cups water, plus 2 cups for blending 
- 1 lemon, juiced - optional

1. In a large pot, heat the coconut oil on medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger and sauté till the onion is translucent but not browned (lower the heat if necessary).
2. Add the zucchini and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the water and turn the heat to High until the water boils. Turn the heat down to medium and let everything cook until the zucchini is soft. Turn off the heat.
3. Add the pepper. Add the arugula and parsley, and push the leaves down to submerge into the cooked vegetable mixture. Let it all cool to luke warm or room temperature. Add the mint (or cilantro) leaves.
4. Blend the soup until very smooth, adding water as needed to get the consistency you want. It'll have to be blended in 2 or more batches depending on the size of your blender jar. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. If serving warm, transfer the soup back into the pot and heat until the soup is just barely simmering (don't boil it!). If serving cold, transfer the soup back into the pot or another container, chill in the fridge for at least 2 hours and serve as below.
5. Ladle into large bowls and serve with extra pepper, or a drizzle of lemon juice, or avocado, walnut, coconut, or olive oil.

SKINNY DIPPING: FETA, TANGERINE, AND HERB DIP

I'm not quite Marcel Duchamp, but this recipe is a bit like art with found objects. Objects you find in your fridge or pantry, that want to be seen in a new perspective. Objets trouvés, of a different kind.

It takes all of 5 minutes to put together, not counting the time to dig through the fridge and cupboards for the ingredients. I had some feta in the fridge that I didn't really like on its own with anything, so I figured I'll dress it up a bit with parsley, tangerine juice, and seasonings. Then I also saw a grapefruit and I thought, hmmm...

You can use cilantro if you want, or dill, as long as you're using fresh herbs because the herb-y flavour should really come through. Vary the proportions to what you have on hand. The important thing is to combine flavours that work well together.

Feta, Orange, and Herb Dip
Makes: approx. 1 cup

- 3/4 cups feta cheese
- 1/4 cup fresh parsley
- 1 tbsp dried or fresh rosemary
- 1 clove garlic, peeled
- 2 tsp. red or black pepper
- 1/3 cup tangerine and/or grapefruit juice (juice from 1 tangerine, 1/2 grapefruit)

1. In this order put the: feta, parsley, garlic, pepper, and juice in a blender. Blend till smooth. 
2. Serve with crackers, pita, crostini, crudités, roasted vegetables, as a sandwich spread, or tossed with pasta.

GOUGÈRES: BAKED CHEESE PUFFS

The French have done it again. They may have been fashionably late in nearly every one of the America's Cup races here in San Francisco, but they've been trailblazers when it comes to revolutions. I'm referring to revolutions of our taste buds, of course. Not any that were the consequence of inappropriately timed discussions on whether the members of the public ought to eat cake.

So back to the French and their food alchemy... take the gougère for example. Flour, eggs, cheese, salt, pepper. And sometimes herbs or other seasonings. All spooned onto a tray and baked for a bit. Et voila! Un amuse-bouche, comme il faut! Make them a bit large, make them quite small and bite-sized, serve as an amuse-bouche, or hors d'oeuvre. However you serve them, they're delicious. They're perfect even if you don't have company. On evenings when you're feeling peckish and want just wine, olives, nuts, crudités, and something just a bit more.

This is quite a versatile recipe. Usually I use Gruyère or Comté (the French version of Gruyère, and also called Gruyère de Comté) cheese and don't add much other than salt and pepper. But this time around I had the last bit of parsley and a serrano pepper that needed to be used, a lovely hunk of salty, grainy Pecorino Romano and a small bit of aged Gouda so I used those. The important thing is to use good quality cheese since you will definitely taste it. Also be careful when using soft wet cheeses like blue cheese or goat cheese because they can make the dough too wet, causing the gougères to deflate. They'll still taste fine, so if this happens, no need to panic.

Gougères will keep their shape even after cooled, so make them a few hours or even a day ahead of when you want to serve them. Rewarm in a 350 F / 180 C oven for 5-7 minutes or until warmed, and enjoy!

Gougères: Baked Cheese Puffs

Makes: approximately 30 gougères

- 1/2 cup + 2 tbsp water
- 3 tbsp butter, salted or unsalted, cut into cubes
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 large eggs
- 1/4 cup minced parsley

- 1 serrano pepper, finely chopped 

- 3 ounces (approx. 3/4 cup) grated cheese, Pecorino Romano, Gruyère, Comté, or a combination of cheeses

- 1/4 teaspoon salt (optional) - You won't need salt if you use salty cheese like Pecorino Romano, Grana Padano, or Parmigiano Reggiano.

1. Preheat the oven to 425F / 220 C. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Heat the water, butter, and salt, if using, in a saucepan until the butter is melted.
3. Dump in the flour all at once and stir vigorously until the mixture pulls away from the sides into a smooth ball.
4. Remove from heat and let the dough rest for a couple of minutes - this is important!
5. Add the eggs, one at a time, stirring quickly to make sure the eggs don’t ‘cook’. The batter will look a bit lumpy, but after a minute or so, as you stir it will smooth out. (You can do this step of mixing in the eggs in a food processor or electric mixer, but I've never needed to do that.)
6. Add the grated cheese, parsley, and chopped serrano, and stir everything until well-mixed.
7. Make small 1 in. balls from the dough and put on the baking tray. If your dough is wetter and can't be rolled into balls - sometimes mine is, depending on what cheese I use of how large the eggs are - use two spoons to mound the mixture on to the baking tray.
8. Bake for 10 minutes, then turn the oven down to 375 F / 190 C and bake for an additional 15 minutes, until the gougères are completely golden brown.
9. Serve warm.

HERBED HONEY LIME SALAD DRESSING, GRILLED CORN CHOPPED SALAD

This is easily the best salad dressing I have ever made! And I've always made salad dressing myself, I never buy it. This dressing truly dresses up a salad, with clean ingredients and bright flavours! Best of all, it's quite a forgiving recipe so you can vary the quantities of ingredients however you prefer.

Although, I wouldn't do anything insane like adding parsley instead of mint or - heaven forbid - herbs like rosemary, sage, tarragon and all that. That would be nothing short of a travesty of this dressing!

If you're making the salad too: roasted corn is important in the salad. It rounds everything out with its smokiness. In corn season I buy a bunch of corn, roast it on my gas burner stove top, shave off the kernels, and freeze for use later. That is of course better than frozen store-bought roasted corn, but really, Trader Joe's frozen roasted corn is quite up to par. So definitely use that if you want or have to.

Herbed Honey-Lime Salad Dressing

Makes: approximately 12 oz.

- 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
- 1/8 cup fresh juice from navel, tangerine, or mandarin oranges

- 1/8 cup olive oil
- 2 tbsp honey
- 1 cup fresh cilantro, roughly torn and including tender stems
- 1 cup fresh mint, roughly torn and including tender stems
- 1/2 jalapeño pepper

- 1 garlic clove, peeled

- 1 tsp good quality salt

- 1/4 cup or more water as needed to blend to a smooth, easily pourable, liquid consistency

1. Put everything in a blender or smoothie mixer and blend to a smooth consistency.

2. While still in the blender, taste the dressing and adjust flavours to your taste. Blend again to make sure it's all smooth.

3. Enjoy over salad leaves, roasted vegetables, raw vegetables, rice and raw vegetable salad, or a mixed chopped salad like below...

Grilled Corn Chopped Salad

Makes: a lot, or approximately 10 cups

1. Mix in a bowl small-medium sized dice of:

- 1 cup yellow or red onion

- 1 cup jicama

- 3 Persian cucumbers

- 1 cup capsicum of any colour

- 1 cup carrots

2. Add

- 1 cup celery, sliced not diced

- 1 pint grape tomatoes, halved

- 1 cup kernels from grilled corn (or use Trader Joe's frozen grilled corn)

3. Toss with three quarters of the salad dressing, adding more if required.

4. Enjoy on its own or as a salsa with tortilla chips! Or stuffed in a pita, as a soft taco with corn tortillas, with a bit of rice on the side, or filled in endive spears.

CHICKPEA, MINT, AND CITRUS DIP (WITH TOASTED PEPPERCORNS)

I seldom write effusive blog posts, but sometimes things just fall into place. Sometimes you have exactly the amount of things you need to fall into place. Or into your blender! Like this delicious dip that will take an unexpected turn in your mouth thanks to the smoky toasted peppercorns and fresh grapefruit.

I pulled a shoulder muscle and was in pain all day at work but I reeeeally wanted to workout like I normally do in the evening. It's the thing I look forward to every single day, because it's fun! And lively. Well anyway a workout was just a preposterous idea because my "trial" moves in the work bathroom left me unable to move much for a good 15 minutes. So I took the hint and came home, certainly not up to cooking or eating.

But - I had cooked chickpeas, a beautiful bunch of fresh mint, which is one of my favourite herbs, and over half a bunch of equally beautiful fresh parsley. And an aging grapefruit.

And - I absolutely hate wasting food and always feel dreadful about having to throw away food, especially if it's because of my own neglectfulness. 

So - I decided that the chickpeas would have to become my usual hummus that I could take to work as a snack, and the herbs would become a persillade but with mint and parsley. And the grapefruit - especially great with toasted pepper and a light sprinkle of salt - would be a snack. That, I reckoned, was the way to dispense with things expeditiously so I could mope about having to stay in all evening.

But as I was laying everything out, the smell of the torn mint and parsley leaves, the lemon, peppercorns, and grapefruit halves was just so heady together that I figured I'd have a go at putting it all together in a dip. And it turned out to be phenomenal - gorgeous light green, with a garlic-ey, herbal scent and the smokiness of toasted peppercorns. Love it!

Chickpea, Mint, and Citrus Dip (with Toasted Peppercorns)

Makes: approximately 1-3/4 cups

- 1-1/2 cups chickpeas, cooked

- 1/4 cup fresh mint leaves

- 1/8 cup parsley

- 1/2 cup grapefruit juice (from 1 medium grapefruit)

- 1 Meyer lemon or a regular lemon, juiced

- 2 large cloves garlic

- 1 tsp minced ginger

- 1 tbsp olive oil

- 2 tsp freshly ground toasted black pepper, or regular black pepper

- 1 tsp salt, or to taste

1. Blend everything until it is smooth. Adjust seasonings to taste - add more lemon juice, salt, pepper, and olive oil to taste.

2. Garnish with minced parsley or a drizzle of olive oil, or both.

3. Let it sit for a few hours/overnight to let the flavours meld and let the dip thicken a bit as the chickpeas absorb some of the liquid before serving. Or, serve immediately as an appetizer with bread/pita, pita chips, crostini, lavash, roasted vegetables, crudites, or as a main with roasted salmon.

EGGS BAKED IN AVOCADO

There's almost never a day when I am not excited about breakfast! So, a friend sent me this sweet thing:

“When you wake up in the morning, Pooh," said Piglet at last, "what's the first thing you say to yourself?"
"What's for breakfast?" said Pooh. "What do you say, Piglet?"
"I say, I wonder what's going to happen exciting today?" said Piglet.
Pooh nodded thoughtfully. "It's the same thing," he said.

Eggs Baked in Avocado

Servings: makes 1-2 servings

- 1 ripe avocado

- 2 eggs
- 1 tbsp minced lemon basil or other fresh herbs of choice

- 1 tsp crushed red pepper or black pepper

- salt to taste

- 1/2 lime or lemon

Serve with:
Anything, really. Bread, tortillas, roasted potatoes, skinny fries, raw vegetables - radishes, carrots, zucchini, cucumbers...

1. Preheat oven/toaster oven to 450 F/230 C.
2. Mix the salt, pepper, and herbs. Set aside.

3. Cut each avocado in half and remove the pit.

4. Using a spoon, scrape out the center of each halved avocado so that it is large enough to accommodate an egg (about 1-1/2 tbsp).

5. Squeeze lime/lemon juice over the avocados and season with salt, then place on baking sheet. Line the baking sheet if you want, with a baking mat or foil to catch any egg white that spills over.

6. Divide the herb and salt mixture between the avocado holes.

7. Break an egg into the center of each avocado. It's quite alright if some of the white spills out - it will. But the yolk should remain intact.8. Bake in the oven until whites are set and yolk is runny, about 10 to 12 minutes.

9. Bake for longer if you like firmer yolks, but no more than 15 minutes otherwise the whites will become too tough and rubbery.

10. Or, after 10 minutes, turn off the oven and leave the avocados in for 5-7 more minutes.

11. Remove from oven and let the avocados cool for a couple of minutes before digging in!

Notes:

1. This works well with any herbs. Well, not lavender I suppose. But in the spring mint, dill, and fennel leaves are lovely, sage and rosemary are eternal fall/winter favourites, and tarragon, cilantro, and many varieties of basil, for example, are all over summer.

2. Don't overcook the eggs or you'll ruin this dish. Really.

SKINNY DIPPING: FRESH FAVA BEAN DIP

It's no secret that I love dips... eating them and making them. I have a few standard, no-fail, go-to dips for parties or just having around at home for snacking. As most things I like to cook, the dips I make are seasonal. This is one of my favourite springtime dips! Beautiful colour, fresh tasting, herb-y...

... and fat-free if you don't add olive oil. I often don't add oil because I find the fava beans creamy enough, and I always have olives around, which go well with the dip and bread/vegetables. Or I have a chunk of feta with it all. If I am not serving olives or feta with the dip, I do add the olive oil because the flavour of olives and fresh fava beans is heavenly! 

Fresh Fava Bean Dip

Servings: makes 1-1/2 cups

- 1-1/2 lbs. (~1 kg) fava beans/broad beans, shelled (about 1-1/2 cups shelled beans)
- 3/4 - 1 tsp. salt, I used Himalayan pink salt
- 2 medium cloves garlic
- 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
- 1/4 tsp sugar, or less, or none
- 2 tsp. minced fresh mint leaves, or 1 tsp. dried

- 1 tsp. fresh dill, or 1/2 tsp. dried
- juice of 1 small lemon or lime

- 1 tbsp. water or more, as needed to blend or process into the desired consistency

- 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil (optional - I don't usually add it)

Serve with:
Bread of any type, baked pita chips, roasted potatoes, skinny fries, raw carrots, zucchini, cucumbers, or as a side with baked/grilled fish

1. Boil enough water to submerge the fava beans up to 1 in. 

2. Add the fava beans and cook for about 5 minutes.

3. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool. Or, drain and let the fava beans cool on their own for about 15 minutes.

4. Using your finger-tips, remove and discard the pale green outer skins and put the bright green fava beans in a bowl.

5. In a food processor or blender, add all the ingredients including the beans.

6. Process/blend to the desired consistency. I like it smooth, not coarse.

7. Refrigerate and remove from the fridge 30 minutes before serving to allow the dip to come to room temperature.

8. Really good the next day, when the flavours have melded!

Notes:

1. Since fava beans, mint, and dill are springtime produce, the flavours are exceptionally complementary. But you can use other herbs like cilantro/coriander or parsley. Or a combination of herbs of your choice. I definitely don't recommend rosemary or any other fall/winter herbs.

2. As always, adjust salt and red pepper to taste, or use freshly crushed black/white pepper.

CHILES EN ESCABECHE: PICKLED FRESH CHILES (WITH VEGETABLES)

It's no secret that I love pickled vegetables! Of all kinds, from all cuisines. I grew up eating a slew of them, nearly always seasonal. Some that have to be left alone for months before eating, some that you can eat right away. When I was a kid, I ate SO much of our traditional athaanu (Gujarati pickled raw mangoes) with every Gujarati meal, that mum had to put a stop to it - no pickles for me for many months. A variety of pickled stuff would always be at the table during meals, but I couldn't eat any of it. It was tough, really, it was. I love pickles that much.

Even now, the only thing I ask mum to bring me from India is homemade athaanu. I seldom eat the athaanu because Indian food doesn't taste the same here in the US so I don't make it unless someone's asked me to make it for them. But I just feel good having athaanu around and knowing mummy's made it.

Pickles are so old-world, delicious, and I love the progressive transformation of young, fresh, bold, sprightly vegetables thrown in together, into a cohesive, mellow, unified entity in a bottle. It's a bit like growing up together with siblings and cousins.

Anyway so on to the ubiquitous Mexican chiles en escabeche (in Spanish escabechar = to pickle/marinate). I was having friends over so I made these a few days before, to give the vegetables time to get into it a bit. For dinner I'd made enguacatadas (like enchiladas but with an avocado sauce rather than chile sauce), black beans, rice, and probably something else that I can't recall. Perhaps dessert. Who knows... but the pickled chiles and vegetables I really enjoyed making. They're super with everything... beans and rice, in soups, with grilled meats, in sandwiches, chopped and mixed with sour cream as a dip, whatever else you can think of.

Chiles en Escabeche: Pickled Fresh Chiles (with Vegetables)

Servings: makes 1/2 quart

- 1/2 lb. carrots, cut into 1/2 in. slices on the bias

- 1/2 lb. white onions, quartered or cut into eighths

- 1/4 lb. or more, fresh jalapeno or Serrano chiles, or both

- 1/4 lb. or more, cucumbers cut into 1/2 slices on the bias
- 1 head garlic, separated into cloves and peeled

- 3 bay leaves

- 1/4 tsp whole black peppercorns

- 3/4 tbsp. dried Mexican oregano (Italian will do)

- 3 sprigs fresh thyme

- 3 sprigs fresh marjoram

- 1 tsp. salt

- 1 cup white vinegar

- 1/2 cup water

- 1/4 cup olive oil

1. Combine the vegetables and spices in a large glass jar.
2. Bring the vinegar and water to a boil, remove from heat and add olive oil, stirring to combine.
3. Pour pickling mixture over the vegetables in the jar, mix well, cover and marinate 4 days before using.

4. After the 4 days, keep pickled vegetables in the refrigerator for longer storage.